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18 hours ago, bcozican said:

I just remembered !

https://kiwicnc.com/en-au/products/nissan-r32-33-34-gtr-motorsport-uprights

little bit out on pricing though - rounding error

I sound like a performance workshop now 😆🤐

What's another $10k, you don't need to eat right?

Interestingly the guy from Brypar said don't worry about the rear uprights, apparently there's not much to gain there.

 

What is the advantage in the billet setups, vs the factory one?

I can't see how those will fix your issue of tearing subframe as they don't appear to change arm positions etc, which means you'd be changing the hubs but subframe is weak point right now.

30 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

What is the advantage in the billet setups, vs the factory one?

I can't see how those will fix your issue of tearing subframe as they don't appear to change arm positions etc, which means you'd be changing the hubs but subframe is weak point right now.

Think that part of the discussion developed from my hub bearing issues not in relation to subframe situation 

Double A arm and associated upright wld solve alot of issues but... yeahhhhh

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Currently working on increasing the effectiveness of the cooling system while simultaneously improving aero.

Previously with oem everything up the front it was hard to package everything and get it working efficiently but we did a pretty good job. Discussions where had and the move has been made to stack the intercooler/ oil cooler and rad together, completely seal it and vent it out the bonnet.

We stopped short of a full tubeframe front .. well just because... but everything got moved forward and tilted forward 

 

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The intercooler has been flipped back to traditional position, this has increased the cooler piping length but quite a bit but considering how this thing it tuned and manages boost,  response will not be affected 

 

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Previously had a 25 row oil cooler and carbon shroud with 4" ducting going from the front bumper directed into the wheel well. This actually cooled very well but considering I was doing all this, I want to to the wick up  a bit more and aero wise it wasnt super effective having hot air going on the tyre, brakes and into a high pressure wheel well there is now a 50 row Setrab sitting sealed inbetween the intercooler and radiator.

The venting will obviously go out the bonnet reducing under bonnet high pressure area and taking away unwanted air going under the car.

The tyre warmer turbo/ front tub cutout has now been sealed off which we previous didnt get to

Keep on ticking away this bit is nearly finished will now pull it apart and make it a little bit more pretty also though the raw chromoly and ally go ok i think too

 

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Edited by bcozican
  • Like 8
2 hours ago, Duncan said:

Very complex piece of work there, will be good to see how it goes. 

Is the front bar just going to slide in on pegs and be retained somehow?

it better go good 😅🤞

The splitter is supported at the back on the front cross member and has a frame at the front that just slides into the slots in black either side of the intercooler - these are connected to the chassis rails

There is an air dam built onto the splitter

the bumper then just sits up against the air dam, seals against the intercooler and its pulled tight and dzus clipped on each side 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

I really like how you're still using the factory runners & a NEO head, in some way I regret not sticking with the OEM intake manifold.

Lost like 200~300rpm of downlow response moving to the shiny Plazmaman intake manifold. 

36 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I really like how you're still using the factory runners & a NEO head, in some way I regret not sticking with the OEM intake manifold.

Lost like 200~300rpm of downlow response moving to the shiny Plazmaman intake manifold. 

😁 it does the job nicely!

Theoretically you get higher top end

We can swap !? Think we could manage the 300 rpm although dont think I need more top end 😅

Edited by bcozican
5 minutes ago, bcozican said:

We can swap !? Think we could manage the 300 rpm although dont think I need more top end 😅

haha only if you pay for the fab work :D 

Will need a new cold side pipe, and most likely need to chop up my catch can to allow the e-throttle to clear with the pipe work

  • Haha 1

I’m going to give the Rajab Racing manifold a go when I do my build next year.  They told me they are developing an improved exhaust manifold similar to the stock one which I’m excited about

 

 

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  • Like 2

Did you full weld those tubs in? I was advised to just stitch mine in to allow a small amount of flex and make it easier to remove/repair. 

Feels weird to not fully weld a piece of body panel though 0_0

2 hours ago, No Crust Racing said:

Did you full weld those tubs in? I was advised to just stitch mine in to allow a small amount of flex and make it easier to remove/repair. 

Feels weird to not fully weld a piece of body panel though 0_0

100% fully weld 

im not feb guy / car builder etc but I dont see why you wouldnt want as much rigidity as possible + when are you ever going to remove or repair ?

Edited by bcozican

The advice came from a good panel beater mate of mine. 

Too rigid causes cracking in seam sealer (if used) and paint over top. Makes any repairs harder to do. There's always flex and having them fully welded can move the forces elsewhere.

When removing the factory tubs, they were just spot welded in also. Re the towers, I'll only be stitching those at most, it wont be full seams. 

I think I'm comfortable going with his advice, was just asking what you did/how it's held up. 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, bcozican said:

ive not had any cracking or anything of seam sealer/ welds or anything

my cage goes right through to the front strut towers so maybe my car is rigid already so doesnt effect as much 

Same here, no cracking but my cage also goes end to end.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Because build thread...

Pulled the fab apart, I got on the paint brush and tidied it all up. My bit is good from far but far from good but hey... racecar

Now to run some new oil and ps lines bang some bigger injectors in and send it

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Edited by bcozican
  • Like 5
  • 5 weeks later...

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