Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there, after completing my rb26 engine r&i the car wont idle or run without dumping copious amounts of fuel out of the exhaust.

what is odd to me is that the car was idling fine. The battery wont charge however the terminal and alt shows 14v while running. (Tried new batt) but to no avail.

The car was idling fine until the battery started to die and the idle got lower and lower until all of a sudden the tick off a relay was heard and instant shutdown. The car started back up but from then on ran super rough, wont idle at all and is rich and sluggish to free rev. Forget driving it, seems to build boost but not accelerate and just dumps fuel in.

checked vac lines, fuses that I thought pertained to my issue and bought a new battery. None of which made a difference.

the wierdest thing of all is that the intakes pulse one after the other at idle as if the bovs are recirculating air. I tried blocking the reference off but made no difference.

Is it likely that the voltage drop caused a spike just as the car shut down and damaged a component? Apparently im hopeless at electrics but im open to instructions

Rb26

GT2540s

stock gtr bovs

haltech plat pro ecu.

twin walbro e85 pumps on with relay.

also worth mentioning alt gets fairly warm after running for only a few mins. Block is earthed, alt privides 14v wtf

(Confused and frustrated)

Blake

Have you checked your spark plugs, starter motor power cable connected properly, if all ok check your timing to make sure the haltec is reading the same as your timing light. Sounds as though the timing is retarded for some reason.

No I didnt check the plugs as it was running fine one minute then all of sudden no dice. I have adjusted the CAS by hand but that didnt help. Perhaps putting a timing light will tell me whether or not the CAS has died and is excessively retarding my timing no matter how far I advance it (its currently in the neutral position) yes I have tried the starter lead also. I am getting 14.3v to the battery. I cant explain the shuffling between intakes though.

Edited by 6InlineTT

Okay, I have some interesting info. I noticed when I bought the car the a/c compressor was unplugged on return from having the Haltech fitted. Apparently the haltech is not compatible with the skylines "direct 12v feed a/c compressor). So unknowingly I have plugged it back in.

When I connect my battery up, I can hear the compressor clutch engage which tells me it's drawing power when the car is off. Perhaps my haltech has reverted to factory plug n play settings for the stock rb26 injector slope. Mine are 1000cc. This would explain the super rich nature of the tune and possibly be part of the super fast battery drains.?

tomorrow night I will know for sure

forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=10543

Apparently, You need to wire in a relay or something I'm not sure. Perhaps only on certain cars or models or eng swaps. My car is a GTfour using rb26 with combo of gtr and rb25 accessories. This is a steep learning curve for me so take what I say with a grain of salt haha.

Edited by 6InlineTT

Unugged the A/C compressor. Battery problem solved.

Base timing on the haltech shows 24-28deg at idle but i had to add 20degrees advance so it will run normally. Total advance reads around 50deg while base timing sits at 20.

I think my CAS is dodgy?

50deg advance seems excessive but the cars runs like its only at 20deg or so. I guess i need a timing light.

You need to check it with a light off the crank before you do anything. If there is that much variance with a light then it may be the dreaded modern ecu/ cas issue where the only real remedy is a crank trigger. But don't do anything until you test it with a light.

Ahh okay. Ill grab light tomorrow.

Considering it was running fine before the battery died while it was running I will hope that Its the CAS.. or I am a spastic

I set the timing via the cas to about 20degrees using the timing light. The car was very sluggish to free rev until I added timing correction +15deg now its perfect. I will take it for a spin tonight and check timing under boost. I swapped to e85 today aswell for added safety and adjusted then fuel trim up 30% seems to run fine. I am a little worried about excessive igntion timing but at the same time its the only way the car will run.

also I was thinking my vernier cam gear that is advanced 2degrees would alter my CAS output? Thus reading more advanced with the timing light than it truly is?

  • 5 weeks later...

Did some cas trigger angle pickup trickery with the haltech to get the cas to read the same as the ecu, 17.5psi @14degrees timing 305rwkw with good AFRs.

Recirc issue gone, car drives great. Time to add some timing and boost. How much, I'm not sure?

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452568-rb26-e-flex-ignition-vs-boost/

Thank you for the assistance :)

I do but it's going in with the new exhaust. I ran it up on the dyno to check AFRs. .80lmda or 11.7:1 pretty steady on boost. The car made 312awkw on hks GTSS twins @21psi before the 2540s went on. So I figure I'll adjust slowly to 21psi and play with timing then while watching the knock levels. When I'm happy with it I'll dial it back a degree and leave it there. I was just curious to see what others are ballpark running.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...