Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have just recently purchased my 89 GTR.....

I've had it for a couple of weeks & now i'm having starting issues - when i start it, its sometimes a little rough but fine when i drive, but if i try and start it while its warm or leave it idling the cat light comes on & the car shuts itself off- mind you its only idling for 30 seconds tops, battery light comes on & also the oil pressure goes right down & light comes on also.

I have absolutely not a clue whats causing it..

Any ideas?!

:wacko:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/
Share on other sites

But would that cause the car to just not turn on?

i am a bit confused as to why the battery light & oil pressure lights are coming on too & would it normally completely shut the car off?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443288
Share on other sites

It sounds like the car has a few issues which is a given given the car is 25 years old now so it is going to be a case of one thing at a time, the cat light is there to indicate the cat is dead so change it and go from there, cat convertor a are a service item and need to be changed periodicly, even worse if it still has the compliance cat

The oil pressure problem is a common one with 32s unfortunately which requires a seperate oil pressure test and then new sender unit

As for battery I had an issue like this year and years ago and it turned out to be the fusible link connection at the battery had corroded, I cut it off and put an eyelet back on and no more issue

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443312
Share on other sites

Yeah, it does have a few issues......

I think i might take it to a specialist.....

Anyone know any good ones in/around Wollongong

it would make sense though if the altenator was going dead - that wld explain the battery light & also the Cat/engine light - but oil pressure... not so sure...

The gentleman who i bought it from said he has recently replaced the battery... so it could be a start point

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443355
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

... the oil pressure goes right down & light comes on also.

I have absolutely not a clue whats causing it..

Any ideas?!

:wacko:

Have you checked the oil level in the sump? Have you changed the oil recently? (if not, maybe you should).

My experience is that the oil pressure light is usually not caused by a fault in the sender; it genuinely means that there is no oil pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443429
Share on other sites

I can't remember now (it's been a while), but a flashing cat temp warning light means something is wrong with the ECU?

I haven't had a factory ECU since 2006 but iirc the cat light isn't connected to the ECU and it's the engine light flashing is an ECU fault but could be wrong

Have you checked the oil level in the sump? Have you changed the oil recently? (if not, maybe you should).

My experience is that the oil pressure light is usually not caused by a fault in the sender; it genuinely means that there is no oil pressure.

The oil pressure gauge in the RB26 in R32s playing up is realitively common, especially in the earlier ones, but is something that should be takin on the side of caution and tested properly before moving on

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443444
Share on other sites

I also had low oil pressure readings, changed the oil pressure sender with a new one and issue fixed.

Cat probe is a temperature sensor, when i first got my GTR the probe was not in, just coiled up under the car and the bunge plugged off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443457
Share on other sites

XKLABA,

You are talking about the gauge, and, yes, they are problematic in that the sender sometimes fails or gives erratic signals.

I'm talking about the "Oh $HIT" light. I can't recall ever having the light come on even if the gauge is reading 0. Only time is when I genuinely have low oil, and therefore low, ie 0, oil pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443496
Share on other sites

I haven't had a factory ECU since 2006 but iirc the cat light isn't connected to the ECU and it's the engine light flashing is an ECU fault but could be wrong

I can't remember, but last year when I put in a spare Nistune'd ECU in my car, a light was flashing (to indicate faulty ECU, sigh).

From Nistune:

Nistune Installation and Communications Diagnostics

Guide Page 18 of 28

6.2 Type 2 boards

Check section 4 if you can’t connect to your ECU.

Signs of limp mode on common ECUs:

1) R32 RB20DET, BNR32 RB26DETT

• ECU red LED and Exhaust Warning Light on dash will flash on / off

• Will not be able to connect to the ECU using consult

• Vehicle may start in limp mode but will not rev above 2000rpm without leaning out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443505
Share on other sites

I just checked the oil level - just to see....

Its on high, but it smells a bit like fuel (not sure if thats normal or not)

But the cat light/engine light doesnt flash - it stays on & the car wont start .... when it cut out on me whilst idling the other day it came on & the car turned off within a second... it was weird...

Im pretty sure ive got two issues going on atm...

Im going to do an oil pressure test & gut the cat at this stage... see whats going on...

Because mine is an earlier GTR im not sure if it has two sensors for the cat or just the one... a mate was saying if there is two i think you can disconnect it & bridge it somewhere ( i cant quite remember)

Ive got an Apexi Power FC here ready to go in if need be

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443678
Share on other sites

Yeah i think at this stage im just going to gut the cat..... Ive got the boost pretty low so i doubt thats it.....

i honestly think ive got a few dramas atm.. which isnt unexpected, its an old car :)

But she is still my girl no less!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443695
Share on other sites

If you have fuel diluting the engine oil, you have a problem. I would strongly recommend an oil change immediately, then investigate why the oil is being contaminated by petrol (possibly a blowby problem).

And gutting the cat can be highly expensive - if you get caught with a gutted cat. Replace it if you think it's contributing to the problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7444501
Share on other sites

So, i have an update....

I was driving it to the place i was getting it looked at.... the light came on while i was driving & i lost all power... I changed down gears & pumped the accelorator, until i finally regained power & it made a bang sound... then i regained power & it hasnt boosted so hard since i have had it. ANDDD the light hasnt come back on since :) :)

Im de-gutting my cat this weekend, so i will see how it goes again....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7449096
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...