Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yo
I was driving my mates r34 gtt today it has 330 kw blah blah, with a heavy duty clutch and standard drive train.
As i hit boost in second gear it broke the passenger side rear drive shaft. This is the second time its happen on the same side. The drive shaft has lasted two months tops since its been rebuilt.
as any one else had this problem ? does he maybe have a problem with his diff causing it to break on the same side ?

thanks in advance ?


Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451743-breaking-rear-drive-sharfts/
Share on other sites

Just because it snapped coming on boost doesn't mean that's what killed it, the damage was done (not long) before the failure looking at the pics.

How hard does he drive it? Would take a massive shock loading to snap that shaft...

  • Like 1

No, GTR are outright 6 bolt, plus stronger everything.

NA should be 2x3 6 bolters, like S chassis cars, with the weakest CVs. R32/3/4 turbos should be 5 bolt with the "medium" strength CVs.

I must be going crazy, Could have sworn when I was looking at driveshafts when I snapped mine the GTR ones were 3x2 but a quick search now it seems that they are 6x1. Going senile at age 25 it seems..... :S haha

When I snapped mine I figured it was from excessive axle tramp (the initial fracture) and a hard launch one day finished it off. It was a very similar failure to yours. This was on 195rwkw with 19" wheels and 265 wide rear tyres. I now have near 300rwkw and 18" wheels with 265 tyres and Havent had a driveshaft problem since the first one. Mind you I dont go dropping my clutch and doing skids

Any pot holes or rough road when it happened?

Saw a gearbox break recently due to this, going onto power, car got slightly light and back down again over the roughness killing the box.

Never had a issue on the flat in the past.

As could axel tramp.

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 years later...
On 12/15/2014 at 5:55 PM, r34unit said:

post-99078-14186264603518_thumb.jpgpost-99078-14186264727933_thumb.jpgypost-99078-1418626504493_thumb.jpgpost-99078-14186265196841_thumb.jpg

Nice pics, very interesting break. I'm no expert but it looks like metal fatigue.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_(material)#/media/File:Tender_fatigued_axle.JPG

If the replaced driveshaft was a used part a contributing factor could be that the unit was repeatedly loaded beyond its intended limit during its lifetime aswell. Similar to when you bend a paper clip at the same point until it eventually snaps.

Dark, corroded void near surface looks like it may also be a manufacturing defect but that's just assumption, could be just oil stain.

As to why coincidently passenger drive shaft failure may be to do with how the differential is transferring load, similar to how an open differential spins one tyre under certain conditions.

May only be far fetched and theoretical but hope this contributes to the discussion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
    • The ones in brackets are the first stages of tightening. I usually aim for the middle of the range. They give a range because it's actually not that critical to hit exactly the right bolt tension. Enough is enough, and too much is too much, and the range given is inside that range. Half of the bolts in the suspension are problematic for putting a torque wrench on anyway, so just get done up to mechanic tight  and spanner checked a week later.
×
×
  • Create New...