Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I just had my stagea dyno'd with an adaptronic 440 running in tandem with the stock ECU.

I didn't have any trouble with the stock ECU while doing preliminary drives on the base map, but while on the dyno, the tachometer stopped working, the synchro, 4wd and abs lights came on.

While the tachometer has stayed totally dead, the other lights would come on when you start the car, but sometimes go away after 10 mins or so.

While the lights were on, you could feel the transfer case locking up. The wheels and drivetrain would slip and grind while turning sharply at low speed. That went away once the lights had also gone.

I checked all the fuses and found that the 7.5 amp "ECU" fuse had blown under the drivers side coin tray. I replaced it with another, which has not blown yet, however it has not solved anything.

Now the more crazy stuff. Due to the transfer case locking up, I removed the 4WD fuse and relay in the engine bay, as per the photos.

However the warning lights were still on and the transfer case still was still locked up! How is that possible? What is actually powering the attessa pump?

I am thinking I should remove the front driveshaft to avoid further damage.

post-46287-0-93486400-1418879000_thumb.jpg

post-46287-0-70258900-1418879015_thumb.jpg

By the way the only code I an pull up is code 21 - injector signal. Im not sure if thats related as I dont have injectors connected to the stock ECU, only the adaptronic.

Im not sure how to check any other codes, like gear box or attessa?

just thinking out load

can only think the adaptronic 440 is messing with the ECU signal to the gearbox ECU

gearbox cant handle the power and has gone into limp mode ?

your description of " slip and grind while turning sharply at low speed" sounds like the diff lock was engaged ( button on dash )

i have fitted a nistuned S2 ECU in my S1 and it worked the gears ONCE and then nothing , only third gear

not sure i helped but maybe it has jogged something :)

It is like having the synchro button on, with the light and the low speed clunking. However the position of the synchro button doesnt make a difference.

The auto gearbox seems to be functioning normally as far as I can tell.

Does the attessa system have its own computer and such? I remember something behind the carpet at the rear of the wagon on the passenger side. Opposite side to the reservoir tank.

Just bumping this. I have put my head in through the passenger side flap in the boot to try and see any flashes of light. I tried this with the ignition in the on position, and straight after starting, but could not see any lights.

I have read that the car needs to be driven over 30kmh for a minute to bring up error codes, even though the warning lights are on the dash as soon as the car is started. Can anyone confirm this?

Where exactly is the flashing LED? I poked around with a mirror looking for a light on the computer, but all I could find was a small hole in the computer approximately on the bottom right of the unit, if you are looking at it from inside the boot.

Edited by zoomzoom

I have an instrument cluster that is always full of petrol,runs hot, speedo does not work and only does about 400 revs. All the warning lights work fine.

Y?

Well, theres definitely no lights coming from the attesa computer in the back. I can't even see the "port" where the light would be that people have referred to (mainly on r32s though)

Tried manually bridging the 4WD relay in the engine bay to hear if anything worked. Strangely the synchro light went out!

Also, I did an ECU scan through OBD scan tech. It can only detect 3 computers: engine, auto trans and airbag.

I now have NFI how to read any codes from the attesa.

Woohoo, well a long story short, the ATTESA requires an RPM signal (along with a TPS signal, but that was functioning)

It seems both the tacho pin on the stock ECU is non-functional, and also appears as though the tacho itself is faulty.

Its hard to tell exactly where and how the wires to the tacho and ATTESA are joined, but I fixed the 4WD by splicing a new wire from the tacho pin on the ATTESA harness to one of the aux outputs on the adaptronic which I configured as a tacho signal in WARI. The warning lights cleared straight after starting the car, and I could hear the pump priming. Such a beautiful sight.

Tach is still dead, ironically it will probably be more of a problem then the 4wd...

Edited by zoomzoom

I figure that will be the case, but I think my ECU is still faulty too. I dont think the piggyback ECU is going anywhere, maybe its time for a mad 1990's "futuristic" digital dash? Im not sure why they didn't catch on.

  • 2 months later...

Just reread your first post. It takes more than pulling the awd fuses to disengage the attessa. Were you on a 2wd or 4wd dyno?

For what its worth here is the manual on turning the Attessa off (sorry forgot I can't paste to this forum for some reason so I'll try to attach it)....

4wd to 2wd text.txt

Its all good now. The car was on a 4wd dyno, I only had a chance to diagnose what the 4wd was doing once I drove it on the road. Pulling out the fuses did disable the 4wd though? If theres no pump pressure, there should be no torque applied to the front wheels beyond the preload on the transfer case?

Anyhow, I was mainly sharing the tacho fix, I know theres a few people who have busted tachos.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So you're now accepting offers of 10% more than the cost of the turbo kit fitted?
    • No......not yet Minister for War and Finances has stated that the Commodore has to go first Not that I am going to modify the NC any more than what it is already modified now.....
    • Thanks again, really helpful chap from alpha omega wanted to speak to me, little concerned if this is meant to he aero alloy/ airospace quality and car sitting on drive has caused this.  Airplane are subject to much more changing temp and conditions than road salts! My caliper, many other components much older have surface rust but never eating part of the metal   Had I not seen it , could have been a disaster! specifically on rear part of bracket coming off like biscuit will update on what they say, helpful people so far
    • January or Feb is it booked in for turbo fitment?
    • The MX5 has had some annoying rattles in both front doors over bumps So I installed fancy pants door bushings, which stopped all of the rattles with the windows up, but........with the windows down there was still rattles, so after some googling,  and a chat with MX5 Mania, I got some new door to glass weather seals, all the rattles, windows up, or down, are gone now Shout out to MX5 Mania, the weather seals were on sale, and when I head to Dural to pick the up they even fitted them for me for free I did see a "really" nice Blue NA sitting out front   and this Black NC PRHT that looked like it has sat in the sun for its whole life and never had a wash, the clear coat was non-existent, an it looked horrible, really horrible, but, it had a nice turbo kit with over 200kw, the thing went like a cut snake, bagging the rears through the gears and dosing like a champ 😍 But, as I've always stated, I am keeping my NC na, I'm happy with the current power the car makes In other news: MX5 Mania do a drive in drive out turbo kit, the only minor additional part recommended for boosting my car, as it sits now, is a oil cooler, and that bonnet vents are definitely required for track use Aftermarket version look a bit to "racecar" spec I wonder how Focus RS bonnet vents would look?????
×
×
  • Create New...