Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So do what? Wait till its cooler?

That would still mean the tune was on an absolute knife edge.

So if you go back to the original question the OP put up - what would cause excessive knock.... My answer still stands......

So if you go back to the original question the OP put up - what would cause excessive knock.... My answer still stands......

Yep. Then his engine dies from maxed injectors.

Also, less dense air doesn't mean a lean mixture.

Edited by Ben C34

Yep. Then his engine dies from maxed injectors.

Also, less dense air doesn't mean a lean mixture.

I'm not disagreeing with you, I simply put up a variable that no-one had yet commented on in this thread.

You are right, less density in air doesn't always equate to leaning out, and i never said that in my post, but higher air temps can/will and have shown to increase overall engine temp, including combustion temps, therfore aiding in the cause of knock (tune or no tune)

What turbo? Adjustable actuator? External wastegate?

Dont think this has been mentioned yet, you might be able to turn the boost down that way

If it were me I'd ring ERD (I think Dan was having some personal problems so not sure if they are still open but worth a try) and get some info like what boost it was tuned at etc. Adjust boost back to that level or lower if possible

Do I see 46 degrees IGN when everything is maxed at around 7000?

Seems excessive.

They are peak values. So not necessarily at the same time.

If it was that engine would be dead!

if its leaning out so bad with the evident knock levels then just remove the e-clip in the actuator and disconnect the rod from the waste gate for no boost and set duty cycle at 95 or lower.

that is if its a daily and u cant get it sorted in time

Edited by Dan_J

The OP has a hand commander.

One great feature of the old Fc is the ability to do a mass change to maps and then return to "as was" at the next engine start.

If you get a crook batch of fuel, it's a piece of piss to pull 5 degrees from the whole IGN map and unless you're pushing the engine you won't notice much difference.

And why would you push an engine if you're concerned about knock.

Turbo is a to4e .63 rear I think

External wastegate is a epr 38mm can't really find anything on this wastegate other then expressparts use to sell them, and it was tuned by efi performance not erd my bad. I don't really want to change anything on controller as I have no idea what I'm doing, but I will give efi a call tomorrow and hopefully get it in for a tune .

Mate you have an Fc with hand commander.

They have a feature where you can do mass changes to maps very simply, not requiring ANY great skill.

As soon as you turn off and restart, those mass changes are forgotten and the Fc maps are exactly as they were.

I use this feature after copping a tank of poor fuel.

It's also useful info to give to your tuner. You can say your knock number dropped to "X" after removing "Y" degrees of timing for example.

Download and read the hand commander instructions and there's also Paul's massive how-to thread on SAU.

i found when my knock randomly went high this was usually due to a dodgy batch of fuel....you're at the limits of some of your setup, seeing as its your daily and you have a power fc...don't shag around...get a z32 afm new injectors and a decent fuel pump.

Just had a good look at it ..everything still connected where it should be and no leaks anywhere .. So took it for a drive bit risky but it's colder and was hoping for a miricale and boost went past 20psi when it should be 15 .. Any reason it would be letting more boost through ? Could it be a wastgate fault ?

Just had a good look at it ..everything still connected where it should be and no leaks anywhere .. So took it for a drive bit risky but it's colder and was hoping for a miricale and boost went past 20psi when it should be 15 .. Any reason it would be letting more boost through ? Could it be a wastgate fault ?

Yep. Or the line going to it.
  • Like 1

Maxed injectors and maxed AFM means its either boosting way higher than it should, or there is something seriously wrong with the tune.

Edit - Just read it is boosting to 20psi. What turbo are you running? TO4E means jack shit. There are about 20 different kinds of TO4E. BUt overall, you have a boost control issue is and it needs to be fixed ASAP.

Keep it running like that and you'll need a new engine in about 2-3 days

Edited by The Mafia

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
    • Hmmm interesting. Mine is the exact same and clearly the right one.  The mystery of the engine oil being full after 3.5-4L continues 
×
×
  • Create New...