Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright so i need help with my fuel return. I bought and rb20det and when i went to start it up for the first time it ran like shit. I had the injectors professionally cleaned as two were had it so it was running on 4 cyl, but it only seemed to make it run worse. all vac lines are hooked up, plenty of fuel going into the injectors but nothing is coming out of the return line. any ideas? i put new spark plugs in recently and they are already black from fuel.

help much appreciated thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451937-rb20det-fuel-system-help-needed/
Share on other sites

Black plugs is way too rich, so the injectors are too big without some sort of control to make it run right.

sounds like they are using all the fuel, so none is returned.

What mods were done to that motor? Compression test? Leaking injectors? Blocked or kinked fuel line? Clean filters? Afm plugged in?

How did you test fuel pressure?

Rubber hose can kink under suction, like the fuel pump intake.

Once i left a rag in my intake pipe, doh! That made it run like sht.

Are you sure that you have the fuel supply and return connected to the correct side of the rail and reg and so on? Have you put a pressure gauge on it to see if the reg is actually doing anything?

this is the order i have it in 2lygrc.png

Edited by mattymatty4

Black plugs is way too rich, so the injectors are too big without some sort of control to make it run right.

sounds like they are using all the fuel, so none is returned.

What mods were done to that motor? Compression test? Leaking injectors? Blocked or kinked fuel line? Clean filters? Afm plugged in?

How did you test fuel pressure?

Rubber hose can kink under suction, like the fuel pump intake.

Once i left a rag in my intake pipe, doh! That made it run like sht.

the injectors are only stock, no mods to the engine what so ever besides a front mount intercooler. pressure was tested by an auto electrician with a fuel pressure gauge, it showed good pressure but shit fuel flow. i will replace the fuel filter on monday when i can buy one but surely it couldnt just be that could it? i will check the lines for kinked pipes thanks

I'm going to replace the fuel pump and filter, if that doesn't fix it f**k it im going rb25

Your having a minor fuel issue and your going to change the whole engine?

Have you tried revving it and seeing if fuel comes out on engine decel?

Changed the filter, slightly better but still not revving properly down low.

Thanks for the tip cal, fuel is coming out on decel.

Since my plugs are black should i get new ones again?

I think i will replace fuel pump and plugs.

Simple things first. New plugs, gap to .8, try again. If its better then it may have been your plugs or your coilpacks might be a bit sad

Get copper plugs, dont bother with iridium etc. Bcpr6 or bkr6 should be fine. One is slightly longer than the other. Forget which is the more commonly used

Otherwise I can give you the part number for the plugs I get from nissan. They are still ngk plugs but were reccomended by my tuner.

Simple things first. New plugs, gap to .8, try again. If its better then it may have been your plugs or your coilpacks might be a bit sad

Get copper plugs, dont bother with iridium etc. Bcpr6 or bkr6 should be fine. One is slightly longer than the other. Forget which is the more commonly used

Otherwise I can give you the part number for the plugs I get from nissan. They are still ngk plugs but were reccomended by my tuner.

thanks :) my auto electrician friend has 5 new coilpacks (couldn't find the other one) so im going to get some of those plugs you suggested and change the coilpacks, besides one..

With it idling, unplug them one at a time, the one that makes the most difference to engine note/idle will be the strongest. Leave it in. Might not help much at idle but probably how id do it if I didnt want to waste too much time

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...