Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This cage the other night nearly broke me. Ive been doing steel fabrication for 3years now and this tipped me over the edge. Left for the night then came back friday and everything has been ticking like clockwork changed how i was doing things i was trying to do my notched with a holesaw and a jerryrigger platform on the drill press and nothing was working. Ended up finding a program called Tubemiter and you punch in the tube diameter, wall thickness and the angle of attack and it gives you a printout and you wrap it around the pipe and cut to suit then a small amount of dremel use and it all fits mint

post-96314-14293178722924_thumb.jpg

So i am finally upto this stage

post-96314-14293178860143_thumb.jpg

Main hoop, backstay, braces, harness bar, and the backstay braces are in.

Ending up with a collection of these tubes

post-96314-14293178999283_thumb.jpg

And cant forget the faithfull helper

post-96314-14293179107255_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

well a solid weekend didnt quite get as much as i wanted done but front hoops are in, windscreen bar is in and roof bars are in.

post-96314-14294355810371_thumb.jpgpost-96314-14294356010327_thumb.jpgpost-96314-14294356176083_thumb.jpgpost-96314-14294356338295_thumb.jpg

And of course cant forget my puppy. He loves being in and around the car while im working on it.

post-96314-14294355619417_thumb.jpg

So doorbars are mocked up in string and also steinz bar its going to be fun to get in and out of but rather not be restricted to events not having it. Had a chat to the bloke who is log booking it and he said its best to have it so in it goes. Hopefully get them in place this week and weld it all up saturday.

Also have a rough design for my signage for sponsors

post-96314-14294359282678_thumb.jpg

Well the whole cage is tacked in place i have dropped the drivers seat probs 40mm so have also dropped steering colum. Feels very different so low but from just a quick strap down the driveway feels alot better.

Next issue is engine build. Wanting something that can go out to the track and if something goes wrong can do a quick changeover. But still keep it kinda on a budget. So thinking a RB30/25 build most common part to fail is going to be main bearings/rod bearings so if i can build a Neo head with tensioner in it then i can have a couple of RB30 blocks at home ready for a change over.

So i have been trying to read through the 30 million rb30/25 build threads and i wish that there was one stickied that just had the important info on it. I know that the neo head is lower cc so technically it needs dished pistons but going to have a look at if we can cc the head enough to drop the CR or run a thicker MLS HG.

Can anyone show me some pics on what exactly needs to be welded/drilled etc..

So I cant seem to edit my last post... Once again this is kind of more for me to keep all my thoughts in once place so i can refer back so i dont have a heap of little pcs of paper floating around to get lost and people can tell me if im doing something wrong or a different way of doing something.

In the Neo Head i need to weld up the VCT oil feed, then tap in a Fitting in the front of the head for the feed and run a fitting from the oil filter sandwich plate to the fitting in the head for the feed. The Neo doesnt seem to run a dedicated VCT drain unlike the non Neo's so dont need to worry there.

Secondly i will have to plug the 1st feed in the RB30 block and then run a 1.25mm restrictor at the back of the block. Then im going to drill 2 AN8 drains in the back of the head instead of the single AN10 from the welsh plug. Then run them directly into the Sump. Also while the heads off i will get the die grinder out and remove any casting marks and troughs for the oil to sit in and channel them into the original drains.

In the block i am reading that its best to run a 3/8 or 9.5mm drill bit into the oil drains to open them up abit will just have to double check that against the HG.

For the time being im going to fab up a larger sump to try and get another 1 or 2L of oil volume but im also looking at getting a Dailey 5 Stage Dry Sump Pump so then will obviously build a dry sump for it and run a new oil feed.

As for the Tensioner pulley it seems to be abit of a suck it and see noone seems to have a indicative place to put it so that will possibly depend on when i get it where i like the look of unless someone has some better knowledge than myself.

Cheers Guys

So tyres and wheels for testing and building the wide body are here. post-96314-14304502957621_thumb.jpgpost-96314-14304503053057_thumb.jpgpost-96314-1430450317347_thumb.jpgpost-96314-14304503272605_thumb.jpg

Currently looking for sponsors so that we can purchase all our new fuel, brake and oil lines for the car.

5 stage dry sump pump is on the way, just deciding weather to fabricate out own tank or buy one.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well we now have a group called Team Bingo Performance onboard looking after us with all Aeroflow parts and new intake manifold etc so that is nice. not free but cost price is a whole lot better than retail.

So car is not back home and engine bay has been stripped of engine loom and all extra crap we dont need anymore. Were going to be going for a greddy style FFP unfortunatley cant justify a genuine one just yet when so many other parts need $$$ spent lol. Also changing from the ebay high mount i have to a 6 boost manifold. Have a new Turbosmart 48mm progate waiting to go on aswell. Just trying to sell a heap of bits to try and keep funding more bits. going to be moving battery this weekend and keep running brake lines. Will try and get some more pictures of where we are at. Its surprising what you can get done in a tiny ass garage when your determined

This build is coming along really well. Keep up the momentum. Given the usage, for a Neo 30DET I'd suggest do the homework and find out what cc the chambers are, and get an idea what static CR you are likely to achieve with readily available forged pistons. Or stock type cast 30E ones. If you're hovering around the 9 - 9.5 range you really could consider E85 given that there's a fuel system, ECU etc going into the car.

Cheers buddy. Yeah its at abit of a standstill currently just putting 150% into my daily job as were currently trying to build it up abit and that in turn hopefully means more $$$ for the car. But the new manifold is on its way

post-96314-14321907702121_thumb.jpg

And the new dry sump pump arrived today

post-96314-1432190795455_thumb.jpgpost-96314-14321908066584_thumb.jpg

Yeah the NEO head has alot smaller CC head so i reckon the comp ratio is abit higher. I have done some reading on it but it all seems to be speculation as to what the comp ratio is going to be. The plan was to go E85 anyway but also been speaking to the guy who is doing the head work and he has looked at a neo head and he thinks that he can lift the CC of the head abit but other than that it might endup with abit thicker cometic HG but would rather avoid that if possible.

So doing abit more reading about the stock and nitto oil pump and the razor dry sump pump

Stock pump flow rates RPM vs L/MIN

750/4.6

2200/15.3

7000/46.5

Nitto High flow rates RPM vs L/MIN

750/6.5

2200/20.2

7000/64.8

Obviously all this is actual crank RPM with the RaZor pump its rated at the Pump RPM once again RPM vs L/MIN

500/6

2000/23

4000/45

So its looking like if going to have an rev cut at 8k so we will endup running a 2:1 ratio drive and we will endup running very similar to stock oil flow rates at a regulated 60 PSI

so currently looking at getting a Ross Tuffbond balancer for an RB30 with a trigger on it so i can do away with the CAS so hopefully have abit simpler timing on it and then we can have the gilmer drive on the front of the balancer. Also looking at going for a PS pump on the back of the oil pump but see what happens and what funds allow

  • 2 weeks later...

Gotta love gumtree at times. Manifold arrived...

post-96314-14331422714442_thumb.jpg

T2 flange not a T3... yay

So ordered a t3 flange and hopefully have that for this weekend so i can cut this one off and weld the t3 on.

Also new turbo housing us here too

post-96314-14331423550344_thumb.jpg

And just stock piling some bits as they pop up at the right price. Brand new never used hans device

post-96314-14331423985198_thumb.jpg

Also a Velo Apex and 6pt harness

post-96314-14331424256369_thumb.jpg

Getting there slowly. Not sure if its worth leaving this thread here or if i can move it to the motorsport build section?

Just made a spigot for the oil relocation setup so now i can get rid of the oil/water exchange

post-96314-14334004123653_thumb.jpg

So the smaller thread is the same as in the block so can thread that into the block and the outer thread is standard oil filter thread so the block can attach to that!

should i keep going with this? Are people actually looking at it lol?

Looking but not posting haha. I like the filter adaptor, but surely its easier to get a filter assembly that doesnt have the heat exchanger on it? (rb20 and some rb30 i believe). Regardless, it looks good, must be handy having access to good machinery to make stuff like that.

Edited by k_d

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...