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Series 2 rs (rwd) SILVER

Wrecking
All parts available. Car is undamaged and registerable.
If not listed ask. If a price is no good let me know, I'm negotiable and reasonable person. I want to sell the stuff, butnot give it away!

RB25 Neo bottom end, 140,000ks excelllent condition $500

Rb25 neo head, modiifed for external vct feed for 2530 use. including oil line and tee piece, standard cams and covers, no vct pulley or cas $600

vct pulley with mod to allow adjustment and diallling in of cams $100

Alternator $75

Starter motor $75

AFM, worked great $60

Neo CAS $200

stock air box and snorkel $60 suit R34 also

idler and tensioner, less than 6000k's use $50

HKS return flow type r cooler kit. Flowed just over 300rwkw no worries. Has been dented into something, doesnt leak or affect performance. This is a full size core, with no cutting required at all. Including all clamps and joineres etc. Been painted black. Can spin around and not see dented bit so all good! $250 Also fit R34 GTT

Very nice sounding custom 3 inch dump back exhaust. Below legal noise, no drone!!!!! Hoooker aerochamber muffler and berklee straight through rear, flowed over 300rwkw no worries, fits nicely. 1/2 of it is stainless, all mandrel bent $400

Standard exhaust manifold $50

rb26 oil pump $80 great for rb2530 build

R33 standard turbo, great condittion $180

Fan with clutch,no cracks, worked well $55

Alluminium radiator , pretty thick , stock shroud fits on it. kept car temperature controlled perfect, $100


Air con compressor $75

Power steering pump $75

Series 2 tail lights, complete, perfect condition $250

Headlights $250

Grill, dodgy black paintjob, $50

High beam lights, (spotlights in the grill ) $150

Standard RS front rotors, good condition,no shudder etc. $75

Front calipers with pads clips etc $50

rear rotors $75

Rear calipers $55

RE4R01B standard valve body $75

Instrument cluster (dash) auto, just over 100,000 ks $125

Power window switch $75

climate control unit $65

Steerig wheel and airbag, good nic, $75

Clear side indicators, fit a bit loose but never fell out! $25

Tailgate $100

RS4S alloy wheels, rear tyres 1000k's use, Maxxis tyres, front more use but still heaps left , wheels in good condition, few small marks $400

HEAPS more, cant remember, ask me for a price or make an offer.

PICS Available, cant be bothered uploading heaps of pics for no reason, ask me if you need a pic.
Cheers
Ben

I'm after the passenger side sunshade if it's the same as an R34....Could you possibly post a pic? how does $15 plus post sound?

No worries. Not sure if the same or not.

post-107339-0-85735400-1419821982_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ben C34

Ok. Some of the prices I listed are a bit off the mark, so hit me with a sensible offer for what you need.

A lot already sold, will update what's left soon.

Cheers

thanks ben, but yeah it's a bit different. The mounting point is a different shape, so the bolt holes may be different. I'll try and find an r34 one.

cheers.

  • Like 1

You did an LS1 coil on head plug setup for your Stag, didn't you? If so, are you selling it?

Yes I did, and at this stage another guy is interested in a pack including nistune, z32, coils, sway bar, r34gtt brakes etc...

I will let you know if he doesn't come through with the cash.

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  • Latest Posts

    • But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
    • This has clearly gone off on quite a tangent but the suggestion was "go standalone because you probably aren't going to stop at just exhaust + a mild tune and manual boost controller", not "buy a standalone purely for a boost controller". If the scope does in fact stop creeping at an EBC then sure, buy an EVC7 or Profec or whatever else people like to run and stop there. And I have yet to see any kind of aftermarket boost control that is more complicated than a PID controller with some accounting for edge cases. Control system theory is an incredibly vast field yet somehow we always end up back at some variant of a PID controller, maybe with some work done to linearize things. I have done quite a lot, but I don't care to indulge in those pissing matches, hence posting primary sources. I deal with people quite frequently that scream and shout about how their opinion matters more because they've shipped more x or y, it doesn't change the reality of the data they're trying to disagree with. Arguing that the source material is wrong is an entirely separate point and while my experience obviously doesn't matter here I've rarely seen factory service manuals be incorrect about something. It's not some random poorly documented internal software tool that is constantly being patched to barely work. It's also not that hard to just read the Japanese and double check translations either. Especially in automotive parts most of it is loanwords anyways.
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