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So the cutout on the right side front timing cover is for the cas and not vct actuator?

That Is correct :)

It isn't volume it needs to be same moment of inertia. I=m x r x r where m is the mass in question and r the radius of the centre of the mass.

To work it out treat the bent up tab as one piece and the other section as a second piece. Add the results together.

I did do a rough calculation and they were fairly similar. Care to do the math for me?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hn8hvsaanv1fh5o/Part1.ipt?dl=0

I did do a rough calculation and they were fairly similar. Care to do the math for me?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hn8hvsaanv1fh5o/Part1.ipt?dl=0

Maths. Plural please because we aren't Seppo's.

Can do the calcs but I cant see your drop box on this pc.

Just measure the length x width x thickness. Then measure the radius at the middle of the piece.

Then multiply the volume by the radius by the radius (R squared). It isn't technically correct by the density of the aluminium doesn't change so you don't include it as it will all cancel out in the end.

Do this for the trigger section and the other part parallel to the face of the cam gear. Add the number together and make the balance piece match this number. Job done.

looking better

post-23119-0-44361400-1420004309_thumb.jpg

I'm thinking the above will be the OEM Cam gear option with the trigger finger being 5mm wide instead of the current option and then the HKS Cam gear will use an extended bolt with a spacer insert to bring the sensor back to the appropriate position.

What other genuine Cam gears are people using?

Edited by murrayis

Might not be an issue, its been a long time since ive done physics, but is there a chance with the force from the cam gear spinning that the bent tab near the sensor could move out and hit the sensor at high speed?

Also, is there any way the stock CAS can be used as a reference by changing the disc inside it? Seen as its only a no.1 tdc compression reference it doesnt need to be as accurate

Feel free to tell me to shutup :)

I thought the same about the flex so I've hardened the sample this afternoon and it is alot more ridged now.

I plan tomorrow to spin it up on the mill to 4000rpm and try measure the flex.

A new laser cut trigger disc in the stock sensor would be what I'd do to create the reference signal. The other option I have used successfully is to have a set of 316 stainless bolts and one high tensile steel bolt holding on the cam gear. Then use the steel bolt to trigger the cam reference sensor.

  • Like 1

I've received notification that the first batch of brackets has been completed and will ship this week. Once received they'll be put to the test on a few different set up's.

Getting close now! So much can be accomplished in such a short time.

I'm still looking at different options for the trigger finger and the rigidity of the finger not to warp at 5000rpm. So far I've taken the mild steel fingers and hardened them and the flex is very minimal at 3000rpm that I believe they will be fine at 5000rpm.

Cheers

Cameron

If you want to persist with your trigger finger design more or less as is, what I would suggest then is to laser/water cut some slots into the finger and the hub so you can weld in a little fillet brace inside the bend. Will stiffen it up massively, adding only a little weight and one more process to manufacture. Add a little more weight to the counter weight and Bob's your older male relative.

I have drawn up the slots already as that was one of my first ideas before I've been playing with hardening the steel which seems like it is the way to go.

r32-25t is correct all the adjustment is done in the ECU - You just tell it where the trigger points are in relation to TDC etc. and away you go.

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