Open Source Rb Trigger Kit

[HarrisRacing]

You must use 12 teeth on the crank if you want this setup to work with your Haltech Platinum Pro.

FYI this is 100% true. I called Haltech.

Also in regards to the Haltech Platinum Pro Series on an RB26:

You can use the "24 + 1" drop down option to:

1) Use Murrayis' cam angle sensor and honeywell hall trigger as the HOME sensor (the '1' in the "24 + 1")

2) Use 12 teeth on the crank with the honeywell sensor. IF YOU USE A WHEEL ON THE CRANK-You must use Hall-effect trigger or VR (reluctor) trigger!! (this is fine since this particular kit is designed around the honeywheel HALL trigger).

I hate to say in this particular thread...but all this being said, you can use the factory CAS with the AEM 24+1 trigger wheel in it for the CAMSHAFT "HOME" location and Murrayis' CRANKSHAFT sensor with a 12 tooth pickup for the "24" sensor. This would still give you the resolution you need on the crankshaft and appear stock on the camshaft (ie- not cut up any covers).

Thanks

Patrick

[murrayis]

Hi Patrick,

When I was checking with Haltech originally they said 6 slots on the balancer would be fine as the crank does two rotations per cycle making 12 trigger points or 2 per cyl.

[Mitchee]

Hi Patrick,

When I was checking with Haltech originally they said 6 slots on the balancer would be fine as the crank does two rotations per cycle making 12 trigger points or 2 per cyl.

This is true for any universal Haltech ECU such as a Platinum Sport or Elite, but not the Platinum Pro Plugin series ECUs. The Pro only supports the stock setup or 24+1 as explained above.

For the single cam home/sync signal, in the past I've just covered the stock disk with a sticker and cut out one of the inner 6 windows to make a single slot for the optical sensor to pick up. Works fine.

[HarrisRacing]

For the single cam home/sync signal, in the past I've just covered the stock disk with a sticker and cut out one of the inner 6 windows to make a single slot for the optical sensor to pick up. Works fine.

Simple genius there! Would save all several bucks on the home trigger.

[XGTRX]

I would still be cautious of using the optical sensor in the cas for the home trigger, as based on some r&d the optical sensor signal seem to to be a problem.

[murrayis]

Guys & Gals,

The final batch has been shipped today! If you want to track it - Link DHL

[JH32]

If anyone missed out on one of these and wants one, my near-term plans have changed so mine is sitting in the garage doing nothing - it's a nice bit of kit but may as well sell it. PM if keen.

[omnigear]

anyone got this with nistune?

Im thinking of getting the crank version instead of the cam so i dont have to worry about belt slack.

Nope makes no difference the only thing to check is the signal voltage, you just have to make sure you use the correct signal wire off the cas if you want to use the factory loom and the other wire off the cas for your tdc cam trigger. That's it and done

[BlackBox]

OK helpful advice coming down the pipe.

About the Cam wheel and trigger:

1) The flat head cap screws that the trigger is apparently designed for are near impossible to find. I will be making some myself by machining normal M7 cap screws. The cams have M7x1.00 pitch threads...yes M7x1.00. Should have known when I had to get the 11mm socket out that something was funny. With my Tomei cam gears (and Tomei cams) I needed 43mm of depth for a NORMAL headed bolt to go on. a flat head screws should be similar length...Flat head cap screws are a great idea though because the countersinking will allow more room under the top timing cover (I'll get to that in #3 below). I have attached a picture showing NORMAL BOLTS M7x1.00 (50mm cut down to 43mm length). I also am using the factory plate and added lock washers.

2) Be Prepared to cut your timing cover. Thank goodness I had this gaudy Nitto clear cover and it trimmed out very easily. The sensor still SLIGHTLY protrudes into the flat plane of the cover, but I bet I could lightly file it (1/8" or so). I will be making a new plate to rivet on to my Nitto cover in the shape of the (sorry to say) Alien-head-shaped hole. Again see pictures for clarification. Not much about the design could be changed to rectify this.

3) The bolts from #1 above will definitely break the plane unless I find some flat head (countersunk) M7x1.00 cap screws. I'm telling you they are impossible to find...I'll be making some.

just after some clarrification on this,

why are the countersunk bolts required for the trigger wheel?i understand how they could give more clearance to the timing cover but what do you mean by break the plane? the plane of the timing cover?

and the cover would definitely need to be cut to clear the sensor? if thats the case i hope there is a work around..

has anybody got this fully fitted up and functioning?

[shnaped_second]

Anyone used the crank trigger mount with a ross balancer? I have a metal jacket so i was wondering if I could use the bracket with the ross balancer, they should sit roughly in the same position and i might get the chopper wheel made for it as ross wants $340 and i dont think it should be that much to have a piece of steel laser cut to the size i need.

[HarrisRacing]

just after some clarrification on this,

why are the countersunk bolts required for the trigger wheel?i understand how they could give more clearance to the timing cover but what do you mean by break the plane? the plane of the timing cover?

and the cover would definitely need to be cut to clear the sensor? if thats the case i hope there is a work around..

has anybody got this fully fitted up and functioning?

Yes the bolt heads would protrude into the factory timing cover. I will try to get some pictures next time I am at the shop, but I'm going hunting for a week, so it will be a while.

The parts he made are for countersunk bolt heads...but 7mm countersunk hex bolts are extremely hard to find.

[BlackBox]

Oh k, but even with the correct bolts the sensor still protrudes and requires the cover to be cut?

[murrayis]

Hi Guys,

Sorry I've been a little busy of late.

The M7 Countersunk bolts are hard to fine however not impossible - If you cannot locate you can use a spring washer and normal M7 cap bolt in it's place which will hold it securely.

I have this kit running on my car so it works with no effort what so ever once you've plugged in the tooth and TDC offset into the ECU.

You will need to cut your cover or leave it off all together. I've had my cover off for year without any dramas.

[HarrisRacing]

Oh k, but even with the correct bolts the sensor still protrudes and requires the cover to be cut?

Yes this is the case as well...only where the sensor is (I believe). I will try to dig around for pictures or get more for clarity for all. I've been down in the dumps lately...this car simply CAN NOT be finished!!! But this will give me some nick-nack issues to work on while I wait yet again for more parts from overseas (the last package was totally lost by international shipper).

[murrayis]

Patrick - I've been working on mine for 8 years I know the pain very well. These triggers for the final bits to the puzzle.

[shnaped_second]

Hi Guys,

Sorry I've been a little busy of late.

The M7 Countersunk bolts are hard to fine however not impossible - If you cannot locate you can use a spring washer and normal M7 cap bolt in it's place which will hold it securely.

I have this kit running on my car so it works with no effort what so ever once you've plugged in the tooth and TDC offset into the ECU.

You will need to cut your cover or leave it off all together. I've had my cover off for year without any dramas.

Hi Cameron

Is there any difference in what the sensor reads with these two types of wheels? not being about 6 vs 12 points but in yours having it cut out compared to this chopper wheel having points, just wanting some ideas before I get something made up.

Cheers

[murrayis]

No difference however when you configure in your ECU the number of teeth will need to be entered accordingly.

[BlackBox]

Has any solution been found for the trigger mount bolts or a work around for cutting the cover?

What is the opinion of getting the harmonic balancer balanced after machining slots in it? I have got 12 slots machined in my balancer but it has not been balanced.

[murrayis]

Hi Jamie,

Most people are just leaving the top cover off or cutting the clearance out for the sensor to clear the cover.

As for the bolts - If you have not been able to find them then you can use a spring washer in the hole with a bolt as normal.

[murrayis]

Guys & Gals,

I have one set of mounts left from a buyer who fell through. $400 delivered for the set if you are interested, I have them on my desk so can ship straight away with no delays.