Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I think I have found the cause of my car running rich all the time and eating fuel, can someone please confirm this... (ps I'm running a Power FC)...

So as I take it the actual full tune comes on at 80+ degrees celcius is this correct?

Well my car is barely ever over 80, normally sits around 75, if I give it quite a fanging it gets to 82 then as soon as I drive normally again it goes back down to the 70's range, would this be the cause?

Second question, if this is the cause... would it be because my water temperature sensor is faulty? or is my car just cooling way too much (which I highly doubt) all of the cooling system is still standard, stock radiator, fan, shroud... it's even got a front mount at the front of it which should block some of the cooling so I'm stumped...

Thanks for any help in advance, thanks.

Most likely the thermostat is stuck open.

You can check the ECU's temp sensor. It has a defined resistance at every temperature. Just look up (google) what it's supposed to be at the temperature it will idle at. Then just compare the measured resistance against what the ECU says the temperature is.

Edited by GTSBoy

Well when I go into settings and then water temp correction, 80+ is at 1.00 - 1.00 and the rest eg 50+ are higher so I'm asuming its to put more fuel and and advance timing?, probably does have a nismo thermostat, never really checked since I bought the car, will check it out tomorrow and also write down the actual figures for 50+ etc, thanks.

Most likely a Nismo thermosate, same issue I'm having ATM, the base map on my ECU start coolant multiplier from 75deg escalating as the temp gets colder on the scale, I have to change that as my car sits right on 70deg daily driving and gets upto 76-78 on the track due to the manual clutch fan starting to kick in

you are correct in your analysis that the PFC will assume a base of 1.00 at 80deg water temp +

you can either diag why your water is too cold or simply edit the 50deg+ correction and match it to the 80deg setting.

just be sensible with the car when it gets to around 50deg and ensure its properly warmed up before you flog it

Well I'll try adjust that and just put the 50+ at 1.00 - 1.00 correction and see how that goes coz I feel silly taking a nismo thermostat out and putting in a tridon or something haha lol... if I don't notice much difference then I'll change the thermostat aswell... i did also notice that it always idled a little lower and more power when I do get it to over 80 degrees lol and always wondered why... I will let yous know how I go both with power and fuel consumption.

Throw the Nismo thermo in the shit can where it belongs. Never could understand why anyone would want a colder thermostat. Worst bandaid EVAR!

Probably for track to have more flow? Beats me dude.

Why is this hard to understand ?

Having an engine that runs a little bit cooler is not a bad idea, especially when that coolant is running through the head keeping the combustion chamber temps down a touch

The only problem is fitting them to engines where the ECU can't be adjusted to run properly with them

Engines run better when hotter due to their tune, if your engine has been tuned to run at 85 deg with the engine temp multiplier starting at 80 deg and increasing down the colder scale then you try and run it at 70 deg then no wonder why it runs worse, set it up to run there and tune to run there and it will run there perfectly fine and further away you are from the detenation threshold, obviously you can't run an engine hard at 20deg but 70deg + would make no difference if tuned properly

How about putting a nissan thermostat in?

It may be that you have a normal thermostat and its not functioning properly. Wouldnt hurt to change it out. Only have to drain the coolant, take the 3 bolts for the thermostat housing out and change it

Fresh coolant wont hurt

New thermostat should only be $30 or so. Worth doing if you dont know when it was last done

Yeah I'm going to be doing that... been wanting to change my coolant for a little while now... last time coolant and thermostat were changed was when I had the car imported in 2011 and got the timing belt, water pump and all that done about 30000kms ago... what coolant do you guys recommend? Atm it's got some kind of purple coolant? I think it may be royal purples coolant? From what I've checked out so far I like the look of penrites coolant... although never used it before and unsure, what do you guys use and every how often do yous change it, thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...