Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well the 3" front/dump pipe (already had HKS from the cat back), and greddy profec b spec 2 ebc went in yesterday. All tuned up on the dyno (the ebc that is) and all is good :P.

high boost is set to 10psi, low at 8psi. Very, very noticeable difference.

The car made 155rwkw @ 10psi. The skyline that they did before mine with similar mods only made 122rwkw @ 10psi on the same dyno. Is 155rwkw (taking into account the other skyline) healthy?

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well the 3" front/dump pipe (already had HKS from the cat back), and greddy profec b spec 2 ebc went in yesterday. All tuned up on the dyno (the ebc that is) and all is good :).

high boost is set to 10psi, low at 8psi. Very, very noticeable difference.

The car made 155rwkw @ 10psi. The skyline that they did before mine with similar mods only made 122rwkw  @ 10psi on the same dyno. Is 155rwkw (taking into account the other skyline) healthy?

thats a big difference in power for 2 cars with similar mods, i think the only thing to think of is is the boost readings right as if there not then you maybe running more boost and hurt the turbo, if the readings are fine then you have a strong engine. NICE ONE mate.... :cheers:

The other car was a series 1, but with less kilometres though.

The boost reading should be reasonably accurate. Was using the Greddy profec B spec 2's psi reading... peak was 10.5 psi

The other car was a series 1, but with less kilometres though.

The boost reading should be reasonably accurate. Was using the Greddy profec B spec 2's psi reading... peak was 10.5 psi

i'd put it down to better mods on yours then, when you change the fmic you'll get an even bigger smile :headspin:

and as reference:

95 S1 w/ 94k

FMIC

Full 3" exhaust

7/12psi (only holds 10psi)

K&N Panel Filter

= 186rwkw

The front/dump/cat gave me around 10rwkw.

A K&N Panel filter is the simplest easiest mod for $100 and 2mins of your time, if you haven't already done that theni'd suggest doing it asap.

Benm are you still running the stock ecu?

I'm debating about my next mod. FMIC or power fc. Sydneykid recommended an after market ecu earlier on in this thread before FMIC.

I'm just wondering how safe it will be to continue to run 10psi with the stock intercooler.

Current mods are:

3" front/dump

3" HKS catback

K&N air filter

Greddy profec B spec 2 at 10psi (high boost), 7psi (low boost)

hmmm....FMIC or powerfc....

I guess with the powerfc I can keep the current boost setting, and lean the mixtures out properly to make more power instead of just shoving more air in there causing the a/f's to be over rich, and increasing the stress put on the engine.

Ultimately I want close to 200rwkw.

Am I right with my thinking? Sydneykid? Anyone?

wil..

Benm are you still running the stock ecu?

I'm debating about my next mod. FMIC or power fc. Sydneykid recommended an after market ecu earlier on in this thread before FMIC.

I'm just wondering how safe it will be to continue to run 10psi with the stock intercooler.

Current mods are:

3" front/dump

3" HKS catback

K&N air filter

Greddy profec B spec 2 at 10psi (high boost), 7psi (low boost)

hmmm....FMIC or powerfc....  

I guess with the powerfc I can keep the current boost setting, and lean the mixtures out properly to make more power instead of just shoving more air in there causing the a/f's to be over rich, and increasing the stress put on the engine.

Ultimately I want close to 200rwkw.

Am I right with my thinking? Sydneykid? Anyone?

wil..

Hi Wilch, R33 GTST's with RB25DET's have really terrible A/F ratios and ignition maps as soon as you do almost anything to them. Sure you can sneak a bit, 20 rwkw here, 15 rwkw there and some people are happy with that. From your posts you indicatee that you were going to change the ECU (along with quite a few other things). So, as soon as I have someone who has made that decison, then my recommendation is to do the ECU upgrade early, just after the exhaust is the go.

Maybe it's just my personal experiences, but I have driven a lot of R33 GTST's where the owner has done quite a few mods (exhaust, boost, FMIC, POD, BOV sometime even turbo) and their cars don't drive "nice". They have the flatness at 5,000 rpm, the idle is flakey, they might have 200+ rwkw, but the average power is crap. They hit the std ecu overboost protection regularly. At this stage they don't want to spend $1.5K for what they think will be 20 rwkw. But the improvement in driveability is worth far more than 20 rwkw max power. The average power increase in more like 50 rwkw.

So I say, do the ecu early, you won't reget it. :)

Benm are you still running the stock ecu?
Sure am.

I agree with SK has said below however i'd rather only have to pay for 1 tune instead of multiple after each mod, my next mods will be EBC then PowerFC.

I agree with SK has said below however i'd rather only have to pay for 1 tune instead of multiple after each mod, my next mods will be EBC then PowerFC.

Hi Ben, that's not quite right. I don't have to totally retune after every mod. If I have done the maps properly I can accomodate a wide range of mild upgrades (FMIC, boost, exhaust POd etc) without doing any retuning. Noting that it is always worthwhile to give it a quick power run after an upgrade and check the a/f ratios, but that costs less than a tank of gas. Plus it enables you to establish a relationship with the tuner. Everybody is human, if I see a person 4 or 5 times I am going to spend a little extra effort, a little extra time to get his car spot on. It might seem wrong, but I can't help it, someone who comes once and I never see again is simply not going to get the same level of "attention". Maybe that's why we don't do any retail work. :cheers:

155rwkw ?? mine did 152 with just the cat back??? hope this means my engines strong, that will make up for the ..........interesting panel work.:cheers:

Dont mean to butt in on the thread but if my car is already making 152rwkw what do you all think it will make with the 3"dump/front, cat and a Apexi SVCR set at 10psi and Greddy cam gear and all tune up?

Not sure dude... But remember, all dyno's give out different readings.

The other skyline that went on the *same* dyno, on the *same* day, with similar mods before mine only put out 122rwkw.

wil..

  • 2 months later...

Thought I might as well update this thread.

Finally installed a Front Mount Intercooler on the weekend :P.

There's a noticeable change in response. That is, for the better. Seems to come on boost a little quicker. The seat of the pants dyno says things are better.

Dyno run at UAS on saturday. So hopefully it'll be better :D

next month/next pay packet :D

I managed a 166.9 rwkw on the skylines autralia dyno day at UAS a little while ago, with only 10psi, stock side mount, full exhaust and pod.

I'm hoping for over 170rwkw now I've got the front mount. (also have a cold air box with cold air feed now too).

PFC will be coming! :P

wil..

Yeah.... I was trying to dial that out.... :P

If you notice it spikes to 12psi at the start too...

But one thing though, it holds the 10psi.

The ebc I have is a Greddy Profec B spec 2. I think I've dialled the spike out... Unsure if it'll still be undulating though.

Any ideas?

wil..

*****EDIT: created a new thread with the new dyno sheets since the FMIC install. click here -> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=51971

NOW @ 184.2rwkw on the UAS dyno!!!!!!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, the latter. No diff should have a centre replaced without checking clearances because its unlikely to be the same as whatever came out. Not that that stops most people just checking a new centre in
    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
×
×
  • Create New...