Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i dont know much about technicality..i have a 3 inch catback exhaust..i haven't checked under the car..just been told the exhaust is only catback...but if i was gonna get new and big front/dump pipe..wont i have to change the cat to a bigger one too? if not wont that restrict gas that i could let go? thanks

ok another dumb question...will the flange size and bolt holes all be the same pattern and size for any 3" aftermarket pipes?

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

A aftermarket dump/front pipe and cat back back (JJR or Xforce for example) will bolt up to a stock cat.

However, you should upgrade the cat anyway to a 3" high flow cat when upgrading your whole exhaust to get the most out of your exhaust system.

If you haven't got an exhaust on yet, have a look at www.justjap.com as they have complete exhaust bolt on kits for standard turboed skylines. That includes dump/front pipe, 3"cat and cat back for a very reasonable price compared to japanese brands. Otherwise head down to an exhaust shop and get a quote on a custom system.

  • 10 months later...

you need to use the search function. it will take you way past 200 and also right past 300rwkw lol

on a serious note search is your friend. there is a sticky up top which should help

BUT

full turbo back exhaust, FMIC, high flow fuel pump boost controller and a tune (flash your stock ECU) running 10psi should get you close to 200rwkw maybe 190ish while keeping you in the safety zone of the stock turbo running around 10psi.

then look into high flow turbo, PFC, bigger injectors, cam gears that will get you past 200 into 204rwkw (which is pretty much what im running on my 34 achieving that while keeping it all safe with a nice safe tad rich tune.)

  • 2 months later...

R33 serII, i have-

-Full 3" zost

-K&N filter

-Apexi front mount

-Turbotech manual boost controller set to 9-10psi

-Split fire coils (installing friday)

-Nismo Fuel pump (installing friday)

---------------------------------------------------------

I want to run 14 psi but ofcouse on 12+psi the ecu cuts out. Whats the cheapest say; chip, safc, fuel cut defender, etc anythign like that that will allow me to run 14 psi without probs and cut out/misfires. I will stop at 14psi so i need cheapest mod possible? what do you guys suggest?

Yepp, get the rest of the exhaust done first.

Dump/front pipe and a high flow cat. Dump/front pipe all-in-one will be about $300, highflow 3 inch cat about $200. Put them on yourself to save some bucks.

Then maybe a high flow panel filter (unless you already have one), or a cold air box for your pod (if you have one).

Then get a 'good' bleed valve to up the boost.

Then save some bucks for a FMIC or adj cam gear :P

J

Hi All,

just on the topic of getting all the exhaust first mod, just got my one done except hi-flow cat(still using stock cat), now, please someone enlighten me here, i went for a cheaper exhaust brand, i have the DRIFT cat-back 3", with DRIFT i think i made a mistake of getting it bcoz its not really that loud but i was rushing of getting my exhaust done so i went to autobarn and got one of the DRIFT, for the dump pipe/front pipe, customized 3" pipe, and now i dont know if i should get the hi-flow cat from a local exhaust shop or get a branded name one and paid +++$ amount of dollars...which one should i go?? local shop?? or imports?? pls reply..

i have been told also that i need to change the stock fuel pump first before doing anything like boosting and putting ECU on my car, now, which one should i do first?? would my stock fuel pump keep up the amount of boost (ei:12Psi) if ever i decided not to change the pump just yet or bad idea??and should i get a new boost gauge as well or leave the stock one on??before boosting my car up??

thanx all..

Edited by myRB25DETT
Hi All,

just on the topic of getting all the exhaust first mod, just got my one done except hi-flow cat(still using stock cat), now, please someone enlighten me here, i went for a cheaper exhaust brand, i have the DRIFT cat-back 3", with DRIFT i think i made a mistake of getting it bcoz its not really that loud but i was rushing of getting my exhaust done so i went to autobarn and got one of the DRIFT, for the dump pipe/front pipe, customized 3" pipe, and now i dont know if i should get the hi-flow cat from a local exhaust shop or get a branded name one and paid +++$ amount of dollars...which one should i go?? local shop?? or imports?? pls reply..

i have been told also that i need to change the stock fuel pump first before doing anything like boosting and putting ECU on my car, now, which one should i do first?? would my stock fuel pump keep up the amount of boost (ei:12Psi) if ever i decided not to change the pump just yet or bad idea??and should i get a new boost gauge as well or leave the stock one on??before boosting my car up??

thanx all..

i am using a catco 3" cat from justjap, cost me 175.

once your inlet/exhaust is done, pay the peanuts for a dyno run to check AFR's, its cheap insurance!

R33 serII, i have-

-Full 3" zost

-K&N filter

-Apexi front mount

-Turbotech manual boost controller set to 9-10psi

-Split fire coils (installing friday)

-Nismo Fuel pump (installing friday)

---------------------------------------------------------

I want to run 14 psi but ofcouse on 12+psi the ecu cuts out. Whats the cheapest say; chip, safc, fuel cut defender, etc anythign like that that will allow me to run 14 psi without probs and cut out/misfires. I will stop at 14psi so i need cheapest mod possible? what do you guys suggest?

stay below 12(some say 10) PSI, as the standard turbos like to disintegrate, and can possibly damage your motor in the process!

  • 5 months later...

hay guys i red through thes 4 pages, and i noticed many people mentioning a tune before any mods, correct me if im wrong but after a few mods for example air flow with new exhaust new intake, require a retune? to refamiliarise the ecu with it?

  • 1 year later...

One thing people never properly consider, GET A RETURN FLOW AFTERMARKET INTERCOOLER!! IF you are going aftermarket (ie not just bunging in a r34 smic or whatever), you can avoid a lot of headaches with piping, not to mention the legal aspects, by just getting a return flow! They are within $50 of the same price, much easier to install (its like 3 joins instead of 6), and will also give less turbo lag too!

  • 1 year later...

had a good read of this, and must say that the person who started this has done very well, however, i keep noticing that everyone wants to keep the AFM, why keep this on your car instead of getting the map sensor and removing the AFM?, i've been told it removes a huge restriction on the car, and as such produces more power, plus having to get a new AFM (Z32), cost a lot of money

Well firstly its not a huge restriction.

When you are upgrading the ecu you won't be basing your decision on afm or map sensor... just on the merits of the ecu and you will get a better afm or a map sensor based on the ecu.

Well firstly its not a huge restriction.

When you are upgrading the ecu you won't be basing your decision on afm or map sensor... just on the merits of the ecu and you will get a better afm or a map sensor based on the ecu.

fair enough, i also think there is more stuffing around with the AFM then to just get a map sensor with however many bar you want to run, like with me i'm going a heltec with a 2 bar map sensor later on this year and as i have already done pretty much everything usual, like FMIC, better air filter system, boost controller running at 10 PSI and 3" from turbo back, the ECU was to me the next logical step into gaining more power.

also had people tell me that the AFM restricts a fair bit of power, hence why i opted for the heltec with the 2 bar map sensor, plus it comes with a EBC attached to it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HUMVEE are fine in big open areas, but they are problematic on the street and tight areas As for reliability, some of the  US Army guys I have chatted with have said that when they were working they were fine, but, the do spend alot of time in workshops for multiple reasons, admittedly, they did get a hard time by the boys and girls who drove them I would definitely put them in the "buyer beware" category  They do look tough as nails though 
    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
×
×
  • Create New...