Jump to content
SAU Community

Need An Rb34 Gtt Dyno With Standard Turbo

Torques

By Torques,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

sleptema Proficient

sleptema

Posted
Posted

I believe the difference between s2 and neo turbos are the material in which they are made, the s2 being made of ceramic where neo is steel.

But if you were going to find an answer, it will be here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I believe the difference between s2 and neo turbos are the material in which they are made, the s2 being made of ceramic where neo is steel.

But if you were going to find an answer, it will be here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/

All wrong.

S2 has the original smaller turbine housing. Neo has larger OP6 turbine housing. Actual turbine inside is probably exactly the same ceramic unit. Both have plastic compressor wheels, although I can't say if there is a small spec difference between them - and nobody really cares anyway.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Why would you bother cracking out the spanners to put a turbo that performs like that and is ready to grenade itself?

It takes the same amount of time to put a decent turbo on.

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Why would you bother cracking out the spanners to put a turbo that performs like that and is ready to grenade itself?

It takes the same amount of time to put a decent turbo on.

You are absolutely right. it would make not make much sense.

I'm going to install in a new hybrid turbo I got for testing purposes.

The hybrid comes with the smaller R33 turbine and I want to swap this turbine with the OP6 (R34 GTT) one.

Stao (thanks!) already said the OP6 makes 20-30KW more power.

I was just concerned about lag hence-why I asked for a dyno plot.

The OP6 is said to have an A/R of .63 vs .50 for the R33

OP6

post-33912-0-37651700-1420021256_thumb.png

R33

post-33912-0-04053600-1420021277_thumb.png

Difference in turbine housing

post-33912-0-75565200-1420021425_thumb.png

Edited by Torques
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • GTSBoy
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • Matvei27
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By Matvei27 · Posted

      I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • MBS206
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...