Kill Switch Works But Battery Still Draining Slowly Over Time.

[No Crust Racing]

What have I buggered up here?

See pic then reference colours.

Green - From Battery.

Yellow- From Alternator.
Blue - Engine harness

Red - Another Engine Harness

Purple - Fuse for car alarm/can be ignored.

In this pic the switch is off, he car will not start, no accessories will turn on, fuel pumps not priming.

However, I can go out after a week and find the car hard to start as battery voltage has dropped.

I had problems with this setup originally and found this setup was the only way to get it to work, with the blue coloured engine harness on the other side the car would continue running when the switch was flipped.

What have I stuffed up? Or should I have used a 3 pole switch and separated those two engine harnesses connections red/blue from each other and the battery.

Here's a pic of the battery setup, pretty sure this problem existed before the surge tank went in, the trigger wire for the relay for the surge tank pump is the existing fuel pump wire, so neither pump primes unless they should be.

[89CAL]

Blue one, engine harness is on the battery side. Id be looking there. Switching off the isolator doesnt stop any drain in this circuit

Find an auto electrician with a clamp meter and they will be able to see any current draw with that.

If no current draw then possibly battery?

[No Crust Racing]

I assumed as much also but I'm pretty sure (and will test again) that if the blue and red are on the same side, the car doesn't stop when the switch is flicked.

Battery is next to new, 20 starts tops, well under 12mths old.

[89CAL]

If the green one is from the battery and you put everything on the other side, nothing should work with the switch off. I wouldn't recommend flicking the switch with the engine running also. Not good for the ECU