Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys , my ac has no gas,in it and wont blow cold. just wandering if my (93 R32 GTR) can it it take the new oil without changing current compressor / set up ? cause the mechanic mention something about the old gas is not available anymore. i am in Melbourne any recommendation to the my ac system checked out and fix .

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452342-ac-problems/
Share on other sites

Who said anything about regassing with out a license?

Just curious as to why someone would gas up without doing the proper checks for leaks w/ nitrogen. Comes across as someone hasn't done the training and acquired the license.

I know of a lot of mechanics who just regas without checking the system for leaks, annoys me to no end. If this isn't the case, disregard me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452342-ac-problems/#findComment-7455208
Share on other sites

Yes the new gas can be used in the old system, though its typically less effective. The axillary fan on always with AC on is a good mod.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153378-r32-have-your-overheat-fan-turn-on-with-your-ac/

Concur with sleptema - seals first and see if it leaks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452342-ac-problems/#findComment-7455273
Share on other sites

dryer needs to be changed if going from r12 to r134a, oil to depending on what oil is in it, then two valve adaptors installed,
also technically your not allowed to put r12 in cars any more anyway, and cars need to be leak tested before regassing (vacc and hold pressure for atleast half an hour, nitrogen is just useful for finding leaks that are a bitch to find) or your going against the terms of your arctick licence.

alternativly hychil can be done without a licence yet thats opening another can of worms, and thats only if there is no gas in the system at all or it needs to be recovered by a licenced person

what jiffo is saying is take a photo of the little valves on the aluminimum lines in the engine bay to show what type they are

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac_service_fittings.gif

that shows the difference

Edited by Scott Black
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452342-ac-problems/#findComment-7457471
Share on other sites

i went to a dodgey guy, i say dodgey just becuase he gassed it up and said if it leaks out just come back and well look for leaks then. even i just thought why not just fix them now.

funny thing was it never leaked out. well 1 year later still worked so maby super slow leak

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452342-ac-problems/#findComment-7457504
Share on other sites

average system takes around the 650g of gas mark, some leaks are as small as a few grams a year, say you have a small 15 gram a year leak, its still going to work pretty well for 3 years or so, and after that will just fail to be as cold as it should then stop all together.
in the code of practise for auto ac (2008) it says that you should service (pretty much leak check, regas and change the dryer out) every 5 year

http://www.arctick.org/pdf/Automotive_RAC_CoP.pdf

page 13 (dryer needs to be replaced every regas, and needs to be regasses every 5 years)
page 16 (needs to be leak checked whenever regasses)
page 18 (need to tell you to run the system for atleast 5 min weekly to keep it healthy)

just random information that most people dont know, and arnt told

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452342-ac-problems/#findComment-7457514
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Rather than starting a new thread, I'll just ask the question here.

How can I check for air con leaks? I'm pretty sure that the system had dye put in it when it was regassed a few years back (had work done that required the gas to be vaccines and regassed) and I'm pretty sure that the system has since developed a leak.

I know that a uv torch is used, and some yellow glasses, but I'm just wondering if it's a special torch, or any old uv torch/blacklight that I can buy off eBay for a few dollars?

Oh and the car is currently unregistered and I'm just in the process of getting it back on the road (so I can't just drive it to an aircon place and get it checked)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452342-ac-problems/#findComment-7490914
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...