Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, So ive just brought my very first turbo car (R33 Gtst), im learning fast but I still need some help. so ive brought a dual stage boost-T ive hooked it up and car seems to run sweet, cant really test it till I get a boost gauge tomorrow tho.

Now I know this question has been asked LOTS, but trust me ive posted on forums, and searched internet for ages but got nothing, so why not ask the experts?

Now my question is: Is this hooked up correctly?

post-138295-0-36556700-1420589812_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452410-boost-t-install-help/
Share on other sites

I'm guessing it's not hooked up right.

If that T piece shown in the middle of those three bits of hose is just a plain T, and there is no restrictor involved in the line going down to the wastegate actuator, then it will do very little.

A "boost T" is a controlled leak of the boost signal. There is an adjustable valve in the "T" that lets more or less of the boost signal out of the line. There must be a restrictor so that the flow (that ends up leaking out through the "boost T") through the restrictor suffers a pressure drop.

The reason they are called "boost Ts" is that the valve and the restrictor are bundled up into the same body (the T) and they are installed into the boost line as if they were a T piece. The signal source and actuator being on the two connections and the other leg of the T being the hole through which the air is leaked out - hiding somewhere on/in the body of the T. Look at http://www.turbosmart.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/5483.jpeg to see how a typical one is installed.

Its a dual stage boost T. I understand what you mean about needing a restrictor in the middle but how I've hooked it up seems to be the only way? Maybe I'll just buy a normal boost T and hook that up seems a lot easier.

Edited by AshR33Gtst

OK, well now that we know the actual type of boost controller, 10 seconds spent on Turbosmart's site provides the following instructions

http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Product-Categories/Manual-Boost-Controllers/Dual-Stage-Boost-Controller-Blue.html#instruction

Click the Instructions link on that page or click the following link direct to the file.

https://system.netsuite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=177080&c=830533&h=946a342eea68c3fc2e82&_xt=.pdf&ck=lmUxAvMCAh_EXjAZ&vid=lmUxAvMCAibEXn3O&cktime=131827&addrcountry=AU&gc=clear

Edited by GTSBoy

That's hookd up right, it's a boost "T" which means it bleeds boost pressure out of the wastegate line via the T though an electric valve, this one does so by two different size valves depending on which one is switched on

A long time ago when turbos started becoming popular a mate put a single cam CA18 turbo in a canary yellow 1200 coupe, to lift the boost level he put a T in the wastegate line then ran a meter of hose off the side of the T then cut 1 inch at a time till he got the desired boost level, this worked a treat

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...