Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

E85. I thought it would of made more but oh well have to ask Trent why it couldn't. It is a unopened 170k s1 engine. I'm thinking I should of went with the sat45 turbo now.

The boost curve is what surprises me because my other ss2 internal gate is full 21psi boost by 3750rpm and the curve looks a lot better than that and then goes completely flat.

post-84279-14333240028034_thumb.jpg

I'd replace the gasket between the runners and the plenumn. Some S1 are metal, later ones are rubber. Mines an S2 and was rubber, it started leaking and we didnt pick it up for a long time.

I used a cometic gasket from kudos ms.

Did u end up getting a front splitter made up?

im looking for ideas, want to make one soon.

Hey mate nah not yet but it will be getting sent back in to get one made up at havoc fab. Looking at something like this.post-84279-14343233710606_thumb.jpg

Yeh I looked through his build thread and found it there. Also speaking to top stage composites atm as well and might just bite the bullet and get there v3 package since tax times coming up.

  • 2 weeks later...

post-84279-14353199119936_thumb.jpg

post-84279-14353199777109_thumb.jpg

New wheels finally fitted. Had to raise the rear 50mm so they could fit. ROH Modena 18x10 +15 with 295 semis. Next I will have get the arches flared out because they sit a bit outside the guard. Don't no if I should keep them white or get them sprayed black.

Haha yeh I think some over fenders will have to be used. My panel beater is gunn try pump the guards out as much as he can first. They sit about 30mm outside the guards. As for ride height I will be coming down just have to wait until the guard are flared as the rear guard sits on the tyre if a go any lower. Haven't really had a chance to play around with my bc cooler era yet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How much have you lowered?  I had 350Z springs in the rear and was able to pull the camber into factory spec with the factory arms on the rear, obviously the front ran negative camber as it isn't adjustable, but rotating the wheels regularly evened out the wear.
    • Either the installer needs to come back, you need an auto electrician, or you need to learn automotive electricals yourself.   First step Id look at is where that big thing came out of, is there still things unplugged at that location? Maybe they just forgot to put a relay in or something?
    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
×
×
  • Create New...