Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tps voltage 0.5 with ignition on still 0.5 at idle. With ignition on and accelerator floored tps voltage 4.34. Tried the crab cleaner there was no change in idle, couldn't get underneath the intake but sprayed everywhere else.

I am fresh out of ideas last thing left is for me to have a go at the exhaust cam gear. I also shot a video that I will be trying to upload for you guys to see and make your own analysis.

Edited by Daboss
  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I was under the impression that no-one had successfully undertaken the internal vct supply mod. I guess to be absolutely sure that it is working as it is supposed to you would have to check on a dyno. Maybe you could try a timed 80 -120 run with the vct on and off and see if there is any difference.

Advanced exhaust cam gear 6 degrees engine is a lot smoother; still can feel vibration when sitting in the car and at idle vacuum is in the 10's.

Did a wide open pull in second full boost came on at around 4700rpm out of a holset hx40 with a twin scroll t4 .58 back housing. Pulled very stringly at the onset of boost enough to spin the tires at 12psi, Still needs a tune. Does that seem laggy?

Car still does not feel right, can not control idle from pfc stays around 1000rpm and when i lower it using the hand controller the rpm rises.

do a boost leak test see if you can find a leak... open the throttle as well with a brick on the pedal and spray soapy water on everything ...then find bubbles. do you have idle air control valve? or is it all ditched?

do a boost leak test see if you can find a leak... open the throttle as well with a brick on the pedal and spray soapy water on everything ...then find bubbles. do you have idle air control valve? or is it all ditched?

I have idle air control valve.

The brick on pedal is while doing the boost leak test?

Cams would reduce vacuum as well right? By reduce i mean going from -17 to -10.

I was under the impression that no-one had successfully undertaken the internal vct supply mod. I guess to be absolutely sure that it is working as it is supposed to you would have to check on a dyno. Maybe you could try a timed 80 -120 run with the vct on and off and see if there is any difference.

I have the internal mod successfully running vct on hks cams

if your vacuum has decreased then perhap more air is needed to bypass the throttle through the idle air control...have you played with that at all?

Yeah had a play with it. Didn't check to see if it increased vacuum but will when I go at it again. That's probably why it isn't working how it suppose to be. Use to be able to control idle perfectly with power fc. Guess I will mess with it again until I am able to control with the power fc again.

I have the internal mod successfully running vct on hks cams

Really? Ok how is your restrictor setup in the block? How does your car drive with it unplugged? Is there a noticeable difference with it on or off?

Mines doesnt work cause I did the idle test by activating it while car idling and there was no idle change and also I have it unplugged now and driveabilty is the same. No change at all.

Edited by Daboss

someone here will have the answer, but these are my thoughts and i'm still really learning so i could be wrong but advancing the exhaust cam timing will decrease overlap and increase cylinder pressure...which would lead to more heat being generated.

Edited by Badgaz

Yeah had a play with it. Didn't check to see if it increased vacuum but will when I go at it again. That's probably why it isn't working how it suppose to be. Use to be able to control idle perfectly with power fc. Guess I will mess with it again until I am able to control with the power fc again.

Really? Ok how is your restrictor setup in the block? How does your car drive with it unplugged? Is there a noticeable difference with it on or off?

Mines doesnt work cause I did the idle test by activating it while car idling and there was no idle change and also I have it unplugged now and driveabilty is the same. No change at all.

Vct is 1.5mm Middle blocked and rear 1.4mm. Idle is poor with the vct turned on and with it off the midrange is about 40kw less

Vct is 1.5mm Middle blocked and rear 1.4mm. Idle is poor with the vct turned on and with it off the midrange is about 40kw less.

Same specs with my build. Only thing is i havent been on a dyno to check power output as yet. Most definitely there is no idle change when vct activated at idle and it feels the same driving wise whether plug is on or off.

Other than the idle check i have noway of telling if it is actually always on, cause driveablity remains the same but that could be the effect of it always being on and idle is poor after cam install. Vacuum at idle is in the -10's rising the more rpm I make without getting into boost.

Checked and rechecked timing, added and subtracted both fuel and ignition timing, opened and closed idle air control valve, adjusted tps sensor and advanced exhaust cam gear 6 degrees.

Everything is within spec just idle is not as smooth as i would like it to be car vibrates and engine shakes to much. It is not horrid just a little off and its bugging the hell out of me.

The cam gear advance seemed to help a bit but didn't want to go any further than that as it seemed to far advance at 6.

So I am back to it either being vct or cams, also i have a very small gap on my spark plugs,

its odd that you cant adjust the revs lower than 1000rpms, what gap are the plugs? are they getting wet cause once there wet it will never idle smooth.

Plugs are gapped very tightly. I am thinking they are .5mm. Have not checked the plugs for wetness. I reinitialized the power fc and did the idle learn again, Rpm is steady at 950/1000 according to hand controller and I have it set at 900. That is with the idle air screw opened all the way. Didnt try to adjust with hand controller as it was kinda idling within spec.

Feel that controlling the idle is within my grasp as it is now idling steadily between 950 and 1000 and i have a few adjustments I can make to get it as close to perfect as I can.

What injectors?

650cc about to be changed to 850cc top feed denso.

Problem seems to be solved. CAS was broken. Car now idles as before with a slight miss but no violent shaking. I have noticed that my water temperature gets noticeably higher than what I am use to. Use to seeing about 95c to 98c staying there under normal conditions and boosting with fans running as soon as hood opened with fans on temps would drop down to low 80'sand thermo fans would cutoff. Temps would build back up fans cut back on and so on and so on.

Now the temp gets to 102c and stays there even with hood open, fans on and after a hard run.

Can advancing the exhaust cam gear raise water temps? I ask because while trying to fix idle problem I had advance the exhaust cam 6 degrees and have not placed it back to normal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The plan is to get it out of the shed. The reality may fall some way short. But hope is as cheap as despair as they say. Will go a wide band I think. The coils are ok so maybe I’ll miss the $1500 on the R35 coils etc. Im still on the fence about a trigger kit. The HKS one looks nice ($1k) - not sure how it works with the Link or if Link prefer something else. Oil pressure is fine so I’m not that concerned there. Fuel pressure I’ll have a think about. The IAT got changed for the Link anyway as the old RB26 ones were really slow reacting and pretty poor. The Power FC just worked. Wasn’t terribly refined but it just worked. Probably made a mistake replacing it really. E85 isn’t available locally - it is 100+ kms away which puts it in the too hard basket. Lastly I understand Tunecorp in Perth are pretty good so was probably going there.   As for turbos is there are new age -5 drop in replacement? Turbos have come a long way in 20 years, everyone is big single which is fair enough but I prefer the old school complication of twins. Wasn’t chasing more power (well, not much more) but more efficiency would be ok.
    • I thought I'd share this....the shell is non genuine but they found or built a lot of the genuine parts. Plus, it is by far the best colour scheme of those years, the winfield once was particularly shit https://www.v8sleuth.com.au/written-off-inaugural-godzilla-recreated/
    • Good work Pete and glad the car held up well....been a while since I've seen you try properly
    • Just quick update, I've had tech issues and so a backlog on life stuff....I will pull lap times from the video and data from the ECU logs to do a proper update. But basically, in order of importance: 1. The car was excellent fun on the track, really felt a lot like the good old days. And nice to have AC while waiting 2. Coolant got really hot; again I need to pull and analyse the logs but the standard system is not up to tracking at 30o+ days, once the system was heat soaked after the first 2x15min sessions I could only do 3 laps before it got 110+ and I had to cool down. If I can't improve that it is a deal breaker 3 Oil temps were fine all day, noting it was short sessions due to 2. I think it will likely need work 4 Biggest surprise AT temps were fine, never went over 100, I would have been OK with 120 before I was too concerned. The auto sucks compared to a manual (of course) but it is faster to launch and I just need to downshift it manually before hitting the throttle, then it was OK. When I post the vids you'll hear it telling me off (beeping) for trying to downshift too early (it needs about 3500 before it will downshift, depending on gear a little but we are mostly talking 3/2 and 4/3) 5 A052s were not great which hurt the lap times, but I will be constrained in what I can get in good tyres that fit the wheel wells. These were small for a heavy car at 235/45/18. In theory I can fit 9.5 on front and 10.5 rear (so not square) but I still need 670mm+ high tyres in good brands. 6 Standard shocks/springs/roll bar are too soft for track work (of course), but that was always on the list. And happily, no white on the mat, despite having a teenaged passenger, extinguisher mount was fine. Also, it was nice to have Wakefield Park back in action  . Because the car was so quiet it is eligible for Green Day, which I thought was a band but is apparently a series of cheaper practice days they run with a lower sound limit, that is a smart idea.  
    • Great to hear you are bringing it out of the shed again. Unless you have specific issues I'd just add the wideband, get a good tune and enjoy it. Certainly no point changing coils etc if they are working. If would add fuel pressure and e85 sensor if you are doing a general update but not if it runs OK and you are just getting it back on track. The other thing is smaller, modern twins, -5 are OK for motorsport but pretty laggy and old tech for street use (of course, if performance is the priority a modern single with twin scroll manifold etc is the go but not cheap). The final thing worth considering is switching to an ethrottle if drivability is still an issue, it should make things a lot simpler and smoother
×
×
  • Create New...