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Thought it was solved guess I talked to early. During a cold start the car barley wants to keep on. whole car vibrates and shutters like before. Afr/s are in the 10's and vacuum still showing single digits. I have to literally keep foot on gas pedal to get rpm's up to stop shaking slightly. After holding rpm for a minute give or take a few seconds and pedal released, idle raises and car somewhat behaves until warmed up a little. Once warm it still has a little stutter but not as bad as at idle/cold start. Car revs cleanly and during normal driving conditions vacuum is the mid to high teens, during decel vacuum is in the 20's on boost guage but when settled at idle vacuum is back to single digits.

Exhaust cam gear is advanced 6 degrees. Don t know if that is the cause of anything but would just like to give all the information about setup as I can. Also plugs are gapped extremely tight, i believe them to be about .,5mm gap.

Tuned the car a little and now running about 17 to 20psi. Boost feels to come on a bit later, but when it does car pulls like a jet plane. Its just the idle leaves much to be desired at cold start when warmed sometimes it seems to drop a cylinder and idle raises and holds to above 1100 but that's only after boosting and I blame that on the mixture of methanol and fuel as i have meth injection. My water temps have also increased to like 102 degrees Celsius just idle and normal driving from about 95/98c driving under boost on hot days and no matter what i do they do not drop. I have a dual core aluminum radiator with a shroud and two ten inch fans running off a thermostat and a nismo cooler theromstat. The system is filled with a full coolant mix and a 50/50 premix.

Do you think the exhaust cam advance or installation of the new cams has anything to do with the increase in temp? Also why is idle vacuum so low? While driving under vacuum it seems normal and also on decel, but at idle its in the single digits. Not saying its wrong just would like to know if it is normal.

Edited by Daboss

It looks like one is switched on all the time, the other is switched off all the time. The point where they cross would be the approx best point for switching between on and off.

Correct. That was just to show the internal feed works final tune is different to that

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