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GT7 has an option to use the controller itself like a wheel (i.e tilting it to turn). I have a wheel (an old G25) which I upgraded with Load Cell pedals as a mod. I can't use a controller to save my life and am convinced all sticks are a joke and consoles are toys. People love them, and they and DD wheels are what you 'need' if you want to close that remaining 0.5% of laptime to the professionals consistently. They just communicate more and you need this to be able to differentiate being 4% brake pedal force while trail braking or bleeding from 4%, to 3%, to 2%, as you feed in steering, or if you are comparing telemetry and notice you come off the brake too fast, where "too fast" is percentages of a percent across a timeframe of 0.1 seconds in one braking zone, for example. Having a really heavy LC pedal means your LEG input is 'less sensitive' which means it's easier to be more precise, as far as the sim is concerned. Similar to being more precise in shooters with lower mouse sensitivity. Your "Error" in your hands and feet translates to less "error" in the game. Anyway my mate was very sad when I realised I could tilt the controller to approximate a wheel and use throttle and braking on the sticks, and then it was he who was tilted -
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Gosh these bmw's are worse money pits than JDM's! I won't complain about my car anymore 😂 -
By Murray_Calavera · Posted
I'll just leave this quick tip here after reading your joys of getting the car in the air. It should take no more then 10 minutes to get the car safely up on stands. So for the front, jack on the tow recovery points (marked in red). Put the jack stands under the lower control arm mounting point (marked in yellow). This photo is of a R34 GTR, however the process is the same. For the rear, jack under the diff (marked in red). Put the jack stands under the rear subframe or where the lower control arm mounting point (marked in yellow). Which point you use will depend on your stand, pick a nice stable point. You've probably already read this but it's worth repeating. When jacking up the car or using stands, stay away from the chassis rails/pinch welds. Even the factory jack point, stay away from that too unless using a factory jack. I used those jack points for years without issue until I turned into an old man and bought a QuickJack lol. -
By DraftySquash · Posted
And this is where the leak is happening: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7h1vlmg2j5aa7rksvsjc9/IMG_9982.jpeg?rlkey=d3bnpau5f615zmxqmca0llvr7&st=kquvdxvs&dl=0 Apologies but it seems adding an image from a link does not work when the images are in Dropbox.
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