Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I brought a 2001 250gt about a month ago, didn't have as much power as i thought it would and after running a full tank through it i found it had really rubbish fuel economy, striped the plenum and swirl valves and cleaned them, cacked with buildup, and has been running like gold ever since, the change was drastic. i wounder how many people have rubbished these cars simply because no one ever maintained them properly.

Totally agree, these aren't too bad as far as direct injection engines go, there isn't much valve overlap on the VQ25dd so the carbon doesn't cake the lower runners as quickly as other engines I have had to scrape clean. It should be regular maintenance to give it a good scrub internally.

As for the swirl valves, you saw the size of the runners when you cleaned them right? I would imagine it restricts the top end badly even with the swirl valve open. The idea is to promote swirl in the chamber by blocking one of the two intake valves to help eliminate knock, it would only work at idle and cruise I imagine.

  • 8 months later...

Hi Guys I have a 2001 V35 that i bought in June 2013 its now 130,000km started having acceleration issues as described the earlier case since Jan 2016 with Error codes P1110, P0202, P0204 and P0206 ; been to several mechanics that could not figure out the problem; and kept on going and some times the car would stall completely and i wait a few minutes and drive on till when it stopped completely ...Lucky enough grounded at my home!!

Unfortunately I did not know about this forum but did my research that gave me several options. I finally found the pictures on this forum that guided me to the intake valve solenoid which i found one faulty (brown one) on testing with an ohms meter.

I have however failed to get the intake valve solenoid at the local dealership does any one know closest point to Uganda where these can be accessed?

You also talk about the swirl valves can one share a pic?

The car cranks but won't start, thank you

Finally I got a source for the Solenoid valve at a cheap price!! i.e. got quotes of $1,107 from some Dealers in Japan which was quite expensive!!

for those in need of parts try this site by inserting the part number

http://www.aliexpress.com

  • Like 1

If the car won't start, just replace the cam and crank sensors. Most likely they are the issue, not the solenoid valve. Not sure what you mean by solenoid valve.

For parts, try Amayama UAE.

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Scotty,

The car was able to start about two weeks ago doing well after considering all the advise on the forum however also found out that faulty Oxygen sensors can also be a big problem for these cars, recommend to do preventive maintenance by changing them after 100K miles

regards

Patrick

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Hi Kweshaz, my silence meant that I had found solutions to the car :)

it rides very smoothly after I changed the selonoid valves, and both cam shaft and crank shaft sensors.

I also did a thorough cleaning of the manifold down upto the the swirl valves using carb cleaner spray and a tooth brash

I did discover a blown O2 sensor fuse that we had all missed to detect as it was so disguised that one would think its ok, thus replaced the O2 sensor which ideally wasnt neccesary at the time but advisable to be changed at 150,000km to meet the required emission levels.

I have learnt a lot about the car and I believe one can easily fix it without a mechanic's intervention so long as you are a handy man

The beauty of it all is that you can know the fault by just using simple manouvers and checking related error codes

Follow the link below for OBD reader and codes respectively I.e no diagnostic kit required

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/236-vq-electrics-ecu-ice/138289-ecu-self-diagnostic-test.html

Regards

Dr. Patrick

 

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...

I forgot to mention

A P1110 error code could be caused by any of the following; 

faulty Intake valve timing control solenoid valve Intake valve timing control solenoid,valve harness is open or shorted Intake,valve timing control solenoid valve may be faulty,Crankshaft position sensor (POS) may be faulty,Camshaft position sensor

Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p1110_nissan.html

An oil change including the filter and spraying WD40 into the intake valve did the trick 

 

  • 1 month later...
On 4/30/2015 at 4:58 AM, KWESHAZ said:

Hallo guys I am back again.Can anyone assist me with the role played by the 2 solenoid valves (attached)(one brown and the other green) found in front of a VQ25DD engine.

I tested the valve terminals with a multimeter and the green one has a resistance of 30 Ohms but the brown one is open.post-138154-0-21822000-1430333786_thumb.jpgpost-138154-0-85655800-1430333826_thumb.jpg

Hello,

Where did you buy these from and what are the part numbers? 

On 18.3.2017 at 3:17 PM, xsocruz said:

Hello,

Where did you buy these from and what are the part numbers? 

You can buy these on aliexpress or ebay.

Part number you can check that picture of solenoids. Middle is right part number.

  • 2 years later...
On 8/22/2015 at 9:51 PM, Block_O_Tron said:

I brought a 2001 250gt about a month ago, didn't have as much power as i thought it would and after running a full tank through it i found it had really rubbish fuel economy, striped the plenum and swirl valves and cleaned them, cacked with buildup, and has been running like gold ever since, the change was drastic. i wounder how many people have rubbished these cars simply because no one ever maintained them properly.

Where exactly is the Plenum valves?? I have a 2006 Nissan Skyline, and it drinks way tooooo much fuel.

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My first thought is to use something like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/goof-off-177ml-adhesive-remover_p1580913
    • Here it is nice and clean and for shits n giggles he's the clearly structural piece of trim it was holding down. 馃槵    
    • A lot of the trim pieces on the E39 are super brittle and just dissolve when you try to get them off. It looks like a previous owner has used what can only be described as an industrial construction foam adhesive to glue down a tiny piece of trim.  Unfortunately this part of the tailgate is starting to rust because of how much shit is in here. This is stopping the water draining and there's a big build-up of dirt that is just staying wet. How can I remove this? Would a flap disc get rid of this?  I think this car spent a lot of time inland. There's so much light coloured, fine dirt and dust everywhere.  Sorry for the pic. I've cleaned this all up now so I'll get another pic of it clean today.
    • Surely, just about any shop that has done a Skyline (or Supra, or RX-7, or EVO, or WRX) will have done E85. But perhaps you need to specify what type of car, what type of engine, what ECU, you propose to be using.
    • Try an oil additive. There's a couple of options for "easier shifting". These are essentially a similar idea to what Redline put into their Shockproof gear oils. I had a 2nd hand R33 (in fact, as of right now, it is still in the car) that simply would not engage any gear with the engine running, with normal gear oil in it. We dropped that and replaced it with Shockproof lightweight, and suddenly the gear lever did what it was supposed to. At a cost, of course, of the then ongoing damage to internals done by running Shockproof. But the synchros were already totally uninterested in life, so there was no loss.
  • Create New...