Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive heard blokes doing 12-15000 k's plus track days no worries on the RS3's.

If its a weekend drive are you really gunna care about replacing tyres every 3 or 4 years? All you will care about is having the most grip ya can to make the most outta your toy when ya driving her :D

Well i know i do anyways lol

  • Like 1

Reporting back with pricing:

Michelin PSS $1550

Hankook RS3 $1150

Nitto NT05 $840

PSS is out of the question due to price plus the RS3 seems to be the pick of the bunch, based on feedback.

NT05 is most appealing due to price and availability so the question I have is the RS3 that much better or are we splitting hairs? The extra $300 doesn't bother me...what would u guys go for, keeping in mind I'd be lucky to drive the car once a fortnight (sad huh)

  • Like 1

I'd still say go with the hankooks mate ive personally never driven on the NT05's to know how much difference there would be between them. But i believe the hankooks would probably last alot longer as nitto use toyo rubber which is always a pretty soft compound. :)

Hey Mick do the 275/35s rub a lot, or only full lock?

I'll guess this is for me, yes at full lock they rub a bit, but there is two reasons for it 1) I should have got 30 series, which is the correct size for the 34, instead of 35 2) my rims are +12 offset and with +18 they wouldn't push forward or rear as much reducing the rub or even stoppng it altogether

U have a 34 right?

It gets me thinking whether I can go from the recommended 265/35/18 to a 275/30/18 as the lower series would help with full clearance but then again the profile is relative to the width so maybe the 30 series would have a higher sidewall than the 35 series...mine is an r32. Anyone know if this would work as I have 18x9.5+22?

I'll guess this is for me, yes at full lock they rub a bit, but there is two reasons for it 1) I should have got 30 series, which is the correct size for the 34, instead of 35 2) my rims are +12 offset and with +18 they wouldn't push forward or rear as much reducing the rub or even stoppng it altogether

PSS like other higher performance road tyres (continental etc) will mince the outside sidewall pretty easily on heavier cars. I'm going through this at the moment with my big tanker.

R32 GT-R but better, but you are carrying more speed... Really depends if you are doing track days or not as one track day

You've then got the more extreme performance of NT05/AD08/R-S3 etc. Can venture to the track an not be as worried.

If it's just street then it probably doesn't matter a hell of a lot and the NT05 for that price would seem the pick of the bunch.

If you were doing the track days the AD08® still seems to be most popular as the tyre is like a brick, sidewall of amazing excellence which gives the confidence one needs (and also decent wear). I loved my AD08 for that reason and went through 2 sets of them in my time on the 33R, they took such an epic beating - was very surprised. Just the price that is the killer.

R-S3 seem the better tyre for a single lap time, AD08 for the lap after lap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The jack pad placement always had me scratching my head. I only have a small section to work with on both the E90 and E70 (and insert new project car here ) and I could see lining it up to be a bit of a bugger. For me, the E90 is just too low and needs small ramps and then the front centre jack point is a bit tricky to line up (it's half way down the subframe and about the size of a tennis ball, its really hard to see unless your head is on the ground), so I definitely like the idea of not having to do a multi-stage jack and just sliding these bad boys in under the sides. There's only one small point at each corner, so I can't jack AND add a stand on the same corner. Or, maybe I can and I'm too nervous to try. 😟
    • Is this not the biggest deal of all? I was hoping the whole "will slide under cars with skirts etc and lift evenly quickly with minimal fuss" was the entire point of such a device? 
    • Here's Neil's car up on mine recently
    • Yeah I've got one of these, Quick Jack not Quick Lift, but your link looks like a good copy For me, it's better than no hoist, but it is definitely not as good as a hoist  It lifts the car about 60cm which is a nice working height compared to regular stands and it is only under the sills so it doesn't get in the way like regular chassis stands do.  No need to use regular stands, it has a safety lock on it. On the down side it is really heavy/unwieldy to drag into place, and you have to place it after the car is there (no option to drive the car to where the frames are. You need to try and line it up with the proper sill points which is hard as it swings up in an arc and there is surprisingly little adjustment in the distance between the rubber pads for different car lengths. Not a big deal, but in practice a jack + stands is probably quicker. Also there are hydraulic lines to each side and you need either a 240v or 12v source to power it depending on which option you have, I use 12v as I always seem to have a battery around.
    • Finally addressing my catch can and oil setup Plan is to do as much as practical without having to remove the motor or pull it apart. (no back of head to sump drain/breather or oil restrictors) First step is a set of full length baffle plates from Hypertune and a Tomei cam cap stud kit. I could probably have laser cut and bent up my own ones but this took any guess work out
×
×
  • Create New...