Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

These were custom re-valved by Gary (Sydneykid) and are out of a winning production car. They are not from the SAU group buy.


Have moved to Racepace Tein Circuit Masters. Bought from a member on here. They stand up quite well against the Teins especially considering the big price difference between the two. At this price I believe they are great value for money.


Spring rates : 7kg/mm and 5kg/mm.


$850 + Freight if required.

Melbourne


0425 730 031



P1050415_zpsc103c45f.jpg

(ignore the swaybars on top)

  • Like 1

any idea how many kms on them?

They haven't been used on a road car to do daily K's. The member I bought them off probably only used them for 5-10,000km's before his car went into storage and was eventually parted out.

edit : oh and i've done about 5,000KM's on them. (including x1 Deca and x1 Haunted Hills)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

What ride height did you have these at and how low do these go? Thx

I asked Racepace to set them up for handling. I haven't measured them however the lowest point of the car was a bit higher than 100mm. Most of the 32R's they have setup are almost identical height, including my current setup with the Racepace Teins. They can be lowered much more if you like for looks or even raised if required. The handling is superb.

Some photos of height:

IMG_0724_zps0d9029e1.jpg

IMG_0750_zps7acbce5c.jpg

IMG_0754_zpsb2ada81e.jpg

0092_zps6d38c468.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...