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2 words about the datto...... F**KING HANDFUL

took me a bit to get used to it as it handles like a boat but after a little bit of advise from a friendly rotary driver I was starting to get the hang of slinging it sideways....

As Duncan has already said it needs a few things:

1. STIFF AND LOW suspension

2. Smaller steering wheel

3. MUCH tighter handbrake

4. New Seat

5. New Engine and 5 speed gearbox (pending compression test)

6. New Radiator

All in all I was fairly happy with the way it went throughout the day, the locked diff certainly provided some entertainment for the crowd watching at times :P

  • 1 month later...

mmm, ran it at the UAS dyno today, everything was OK but even the stickers couldn't get it the extra .3 rkwk it needed :(

datto_dyno.jpg

BTW, does anyone know a good Datto suspension workshop in sydney?

Cheap rebuild - buy Z22 motor (cheap) use +2 oversize pistons , L20B head timing cover mild cam better carby and exhaust and bluebird 5 spd . I can't believe you didn't look for one with semi trailing arm IRS . With the 4 link you will never stop it doing the rear steer thing . H series diffs are a bastard to work on and very limited in suitable ratios . LSD's are rare and expensive . If it was me I'd have been paying the loan off on a cheap N/A S13 or R32 . Far more competitive standard and all the good bits fall in . Still for a project could be good .

you know, we expected to need a rebuild by now but the bloody thing hasn't died yet.

gee its nice how cheap parts are for older aus cars too....$50 for a secondhand engine, makes $6000 for an rb26 look pretty poor....100hp/$50 = 5c per hp versus 280hp/$6000 = $21.42 per hp :D

yeah the IRS would have been a better starting point...but this car was the right price....and we now have a *very* limited slip diff due to our good friend the mig welder :(

Stewart Wilkins knows his datto stuff, thats where i get my bits from...also try SSS automotive although i think they may have moved away from the older stuff now....

The recipe for a good torquey L series combo consists of(ive built one b4)......

  • L18 Block
  • Double counterweight crankshaft, I avoid using the single weight cranks.
  • L24 flywheel, lighter than the 4cyl ones and accepts the larger diameter clutch plate and pressure plate(i think Navara is lighter again, but dont quote me)
  • 720 4WD Clutch
  • L16 conrods, as they are 2.9mm longer than the L18 rods. This improves the rod ratio from 1.66 to 1.7, giving more bottom end torque. The standard datsun piston has a 2.9mm deep dish in the top. So by fitting L16 conrods and machining the piston flat, you end up with a zero deck height, flat top piston bottom end, that has a better rod ratio than the L20B (1.68).
  • 60 thou oversize pistons
  • Stanza SSS gbox...better ratios and reverse is directly above 1st making it ideal for a kana car.
    R 2 4
    1 3 5

You can take an L18 to 140thou over and use toyota pistons if u wish...they have massively thick bores.

Z22 + 2 = 2290cc which still revs reliably and uses cheap common L20B accessories ie buy bore bolt . The larger capacity engines make a broad usable torque curve which is needed for motor khana . If you want to spend more money the L Series head will go onto a Z24 block with a bit of work . KA24's are better again but use the SR20 bell housing pattern . It comes down to how much you wish to spend . If its not much just freshen up the L20B .

I forgot one thing, the L18 head has the best design combustion chambers of all the L series 4's.....the 200b has the largest port size.. you choose which one you want, but i'd go the L18 and port it out and fit the larger valves.

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