Jump to content
SAU Community

Gh05t's 32 Gtr Daily Cleanup


Recommended Posts

Ok, pulling the dash out tomorrow to replace all the bulbs for LEDs now that they have arrived.

is there anything i nee to know, anything which is likely to break or clips in odd places?

for the main cluster:
im assuming its simply unscrew the surrounds and remove,
unscrew the dash and remove and unplug one main plug

then replace bulbs, i know their positive/negative and not to put it back together before testing... done that before

the ac i have done before on a gts so again im assuming the same.

tripple guage i dont know yet but cant be harder than a 34 gtt tripple?


ignore questions as search found it.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115618-r32-headlight-switch-and-dash-globe-replacement/



...... Tonight's pointless post, brought to you by rebellion bay spiced rum.

Edited by GH05T
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok where is this ... vaccume hose? Supposed to go? Just pokin out randomly by my batter all of a sudden.

20150201_172754_zps5g7vibwr.jpg

Dissappears under the plenum With the other hose which goes to the stock boost solanoid.

20150201_172859_zps6kgzvizk.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no free nipples...

heard that before


20150202_073330_zpsgxoysheg.jpg

my guess is something has been removed or made redundant with the new intercooler hoses?

it dosnt have any vacuum or pressure and im starting to think it goes nowhere and hasnt since i have owner her.
either that or its a re circulation system for emissions and does stuff all generally?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like a good candidate.

No chance of tracing it to the source ?

I'll take a pic of mine today. Got exactly the same thing. (Not connected)

I was curious and asked ESP about it and I was told it went to the sump :unsure:

Hence my comment above

Edit: I have a Nismo plenum and it appeared after it was put on

Edited by Sinista32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

tried in the shed, my not tiny asian hands traced it simply to, dissapearing under the plenum, following the other vac lines from the boost solanoid but havnt traced it further. made no difference when running or revving and as said has no pressure or vac. and i just cant find anything else open ended to connect to within reach.

asked the Pavlou guys who recently did the heater hoses and they saw it too, they weren't sure what it connected to (not really looking as they were doing other things) but came to the same conclusion that it was doing no good or bad and left it alone which means it hasnt been connected for probably a year at least.

Edited by GH05T
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hmmm, well im just gonna ziptie it out of the way for now. dont want it finding the radiator fan or anything fun like that.
will do some more searching later.


also

20150201_173348_zpslzfrpg5e.jpg

yay stock steering wheel

shit thing is... which is very odd, i still have the HICAS light coming on at exactly 10km into a trip. do i need to reset something or is it another fault somewhere else?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does It run to a nipple next to the intercooler pipe? Line for the bovs.

Breather for the front sump goes to an upside down u shape bracket bolted to the underside of the inlet manifold. Usually a thin vac hose.

Not 100% sure if thats the hose you mean.

Edited by k_d
Link to comment
Share on other sites

just a thought about the hicas light. does it keep blowing a fuse? check the fusebox inside the car, top row 7th along. its a 10a one. maybe try cleaning up the earth? theres the hicas module under the factory boost solenoid. the earth for it is close by.

i had mine come on randomly recently (light on and hard steering) and i blew a couple fuses trying to figure out whats wrong. cleaned up the earth and contact point, new fuse. all good now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

k_d

there is another pipe taking that up
20150202_073330_zpsgxoysheg.jpg

will investigate the sump side when i get it in the air, cant see shit from under the bonnet.


on the hicas light, i will check the fuse, its annoying that it follows the exact 10km and fail symptom with the new steering wheel, is the stock boss not doing something maby?
my thoughts are going back to just pulling the bitch out and getting the martini locks.

in reading the hicas removal threads i do like the idea that you can plumb the unused system properly so that the hicas light still functions for low fluid or pump failing errors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

use the posted diagram to help you where find where it goes.

grab that rogue vacuum hose follow its path until you get to the end of it. it doesnt lead to the abyss you just havent figured it out yet.

how does the car behave? like a boost leak?unlimited boost?

has the factory boost solenoid been removed? do you have an aftermarket ebc? could be the line does not connect to anything?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

stock boost controller is there and plumbed in, dosnt act like any boost leak and hits stock boost only.
i will get on it when i have a chance. probably when i get the plenum off to do the throttle linkages.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah i went, was an epic meet, i'm guessing 2-3000 cars.

32 ran well, had a chance to really rev it out and go for a decent drive which was nice.

On the run i pulled up at a set of lights next to a white 32gtr to which i strongly suggested he give me his grey dished panasports.... he declined :P

met him after and turns out he is Josh , owner of Forge Performance who i might go and see for a few things along the way which we discussed, nice bloke, not sure if i have seen him on here.

on that topic, we were discussing the car and some of its oddities/ rarities which include

no rear wiper

all the n1 bits (bonnet lip, sideskirts, rear spoiler (albeit missing) vents ect)

nismo 260 dash

we have been looking into its VIN which is still a bit perplexing, especially the last 3 digits which seem to be early 89 model only.
currently checking it out in the fast thread to see what it spits out, but it seems all the parts on the car are genuine and not just stuck on after which is nice to know.

will report back if it brings up anything of real interest.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
    • If you really want squish back, you can have it put on the piston (at least to some extent).
    • Impressive. He's very very smooth.
×
×
  • Create New...