Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But honestly, for street use, what is the best kind of rotor? standard, slotted, drilled or slotted and drilled? Came across some slotted and drilled brakes for a decent price and im not sure if they are good enough. I heard they tend to wear out much quicker but are better than the others in terms of performance. Im only going to use it on the street but i dont want to replace discs and pads for another good few years , will i be alright with drilled and slotted brakes?

Steer clear of drilled and slotted and stick to factory for the street. Or just slotted rotors.

Drilled rotors tend to crack, however if it's just on the street you may never get them hot enough to see that happen.

Steer clear of drilled and slotted and stick to factory for the street. Or just slotted rotors.

Drilled rotors tend to crack, however if it's just on the street you may never get them hot enough to see that happen.

can you really generalise drilled and slotted discs like that? maybe if you abuse them for a long time they would crack but if you brake hard here and there then it shouldn't be a problem? i mean if i take my car to royal national park and gun it up there, will they crack? im just after street use and occasional hooning

Edited by IM-32-FK

Too be honest I've never used drilled rotors before and I've only ever seen them crack on track cars.

If you can get them at a decent price then you should be fine. I'd just keep an eye on them after some hard driving.

The reality is for street use it doesn't matter. Use whatever you like. You shouldn't be using them hard enough to cause cracking issues. A common or garden variety plain disc is cheap and looks after the pads so would be best unless you want purtiness.

For track use it does matter and slotted rotors (done correctly) are what you want. Drilled are to be avoided. Solid rotors aren't as good as slotted. Slotted you need to ensure they are done right (so no slots to the edge of the rotor, proper radiused finishes etc). Then you get into hats, cooling vanes, material etc etc.

nah, plain discs arnt cheap. they still cost around $250 brand new, slotted and drilled only cost $100 extra. so you might as well get slotted/drilled discs...

Slotted

More so do research on pads, brake lines, brake fluids, disc sizes, brake stopper

Genius. He said for road use. Last time I checked there wasn't a great need for degassing pads when you drive down to the shops. So yeah go pay more money for stuff you don't need that will wear the brake pads out that bit faster.

If you are getting them for cheap then just get them for cheap and don't worry too much about it.

The major cause of them needing replacement is failure ie cracks, warping etc. Which is usually because people use on tracks something that isn't meant to be used on tracks. Says so on the box. Not for motorsport use.

For some reason people are willing to pay more money to use them on the road where the extra stuff has no benefit. Genius.

  • Like 1

I take your point on over engineering :/

Although for me I'd still go slotted, better pads, fluid and braided lines.

If I'm spending on new I generally upgrade for the little extra at the same time.

Especially if I have upgraded the performance of the vehicle.

To take it one step further, slotted rotors don't even offer an advantage on the track. It's one of the biggest automotive scams out there. This is straight from the mouth of an engineer who works for a large brake manufacturer, reporting on the testing they did when their company wanted to release a "performance slotted street range" of rotors. They performed worse than their run of the mill stuff on the dyno, but guess what? They still whacked a 30% premium on them and put them on the shelves. And you guessed it, muppets happily pay that premium because racecar.

By all means, better pads and decent fluids will help you, as will quality rotors. Just don't waste your money on slotted, thinking that they offer any kind of performance upgrade whatsoever.

Edited by warps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ❤️ Matty I would like to thank Matty for going out his way in securing me a OEM NC detachable hard top for the NC Matty, your worth your weight in gold, and I cannot say how much I really appreciate your outstanding help I'll get it colour matched once I pick it up sometime in Dec-Jan 😁  
    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
×
×
  • Create New...