R33 Rb30det Drift Build In The Nt. 350z 6 Speed

[Yonz]

I've had this R33 for a little over 1 year, slowly gathering parts and building the engine during that time.

During the last couple months I've had some spare time and all the parts ready to go. So it's finally, slowly, coming together.

I picked it up in Darwin for 2.5k, and while pretty rough, was a standard manual S1 GTS-T. It came with alot of spares that I've since sold off to fund useful parts.

The parts list for it;

Haltech plugin pro ECU

RB30DET, Spool rods, CP pistpons (20thou oversize), Raw Brokerage oil pump drive, Spool billet oil pump gears, Tomei springs and poncams (R33 25 head).

Spool high volume oil sump

MetalJacket Balancer

GTX35 from Proboost

6Boost manifold, 48mm gate

3.5" cat back exhaust

RIPS intake plenum

350Z 6 Speed transmission (CD009). Adapter plate, flywheel and clutch to suit from MA-Motorsports

Z Speed Performance concentric slave

350Z Yolk installed onto tailshaft and tailshaft lengthened - _{waiting for next pay}

_{R33 GTR Diff once the standard one dies}

_{gktech drop knuckles when a GTR diff goes in}

Turbosmart FPR 1200

-8AN fuel feed line, -6AN return

LS2 coils - _{coming soon}

Velo bucket seat + harness

Greddy oil relocation thermostat + oil cooler

PWR Intercooler

Project Mu handbrake shoes

Coolant header tank next to brake booster

Power Steering cooler and belt Idler

gktech front lock knuckles

D2 coilovers

Still thinking about the majority of the fuel setup.

Trimming the fat a bit to recap progress in pics.

So going back about a year or so, I started building the 2530.

Brass plug removed for VCT mod

Internal VCT mod. 2mm down the guts and 1.5mm out the side

Oil gallery welded shut

New stem seals, valves, Tomei valve springs, lifters and Tomei Poncams

Block machined 20thou oversize and a 5mm deep cutout, 15mm in, to clear the exhaust flange

No better workshop than your own room

All the gear from MA-Motorsports for the 350Z gearbox conversion

Bellhousing machined as required for the conversion

Adapter plate bolted down

And the RB25 automatic bellhousing bolted down

With the Z Speed Performance concentric slave installed. Had to drill a few holes for the clutch lines

Test fit for clearence, tailshaft measuring and crossmember modding

Mounting point is slightly out. The crossmember has already been modded and fits a treat.

The shifting position is out by 240mm. gktech should have something to address this soon, hopefully.

My return to system from the header tank

My effort to save some cash. My $50 beats Ross balancers $330. Power steering belt idler using a subaru timing belt idler, GMB part #JBT658B

Engine bay at the moment. The good manifolds will go on once I know the engine doesn't need to come out again.

Box out for some minimal tunnel massaging and general tinkering. The 350Z box is actually shorter than all of these.

As the old girl sits now.

[Dale FZ1]

Really good work there.

Interesting approach with the power steer belt idler. Likewise the gearbox - what's the expected benefits from fitting one of those?

Keep the pictures coming.

[Yonz]

Thanks mate.

Yeah, just want to avoid the belt coming off and didn't want to pay through the arse for it. The 4mm alloy might bend eventually but if it does I'll just double the plate up.

6 speed being one benifit (could use a taller diff ratio for close to stock final drive for 1^st - 5^th and 6^th would essentially be overdrive) and it's a stronger box with mostly triple cone synchros throughout it.

Shall do

[Yonz]

Slow progress is slow. Work has been flat out and the Drift events in Darwin have started up again so I'm back to dividing my spare time and coin

Been doing a heap of little things lately

Made up a bracket for my LS2 coilpacks to sit in the valley

Made up the intercooler mount and an air dam for it

Parts came in the mail! Also played around with another set of rocker covers, I drilled out the breather ports and tapped a 7/8 UNF thread (-10AN) to run a 90° fitting as low as I could get to allow for more bonnet clearance. Also the gold looks much better.

The coilpack braket almost done with the loom almost done as well

The tailshaft has been made up and a few other things are slowly coming together as well

[Yonz]

The loom is 100% done now (slightly old pic). I did a continuity check and everything is as it should be, happy days

The difference in height between the push in fitting and the male male -10 90°

Coilpacks and covers happy in their new home

Quick and probably silly question, I want to turn the engine over to get some oil going through it since it's been sitting a while.

Would I need to prime between the filter and pump or something to help it out or should I just be able to crank it and get pressure pretty quickly?

[DCIEVE]

If it has run before the pump will be good to go. But to be sure you can pull the plugs and turn it over with the turbo oil feed off to make sure there's oil circulating.

I'm enjoying the build by the way, keep the updates coming

[Yonz]

It's never ran.

Everthing is brand new and only has assembly lube. I figure it should start pumping eventually, but I don't want to have it cranking for a minute and still have no oil pressure because I skipped a step I didn't know about

Pulling plugs and the oil feed will be easy enough.

Cheers, I'll try to keep them somewhat regular haha

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

That 350Z conversion is interesting, hopefully there will be a full off the shelf kit one day - seems there's still some mucking around to get it to fit.

Would love a 6 speed in my R33!

[Yonz]

Thanks mate, can't wait to test it out.

There isn't really a great deal of hassle with it, If I had shops nearby and a bit more spare coin it would be sorted out by now.

The tailshaft, slave and shifter mount are the only bits that I've had to sort out.

The tailshaft is in the post as of this afternoon and the slave is sorted. gktech will have a shifter mount in the coming months, though if I get desperate I can get one from other shops for about $300

The only other aspect that requires thought is the diff ratio. 4.11 is too short for this box, something around 3.5 would be nice I think.

Z33
1st 3.794
2nd 2.324
3rd 1.624
4th 1.271
5th 1.000
6th 0.794
Reverse 3.446

R33
1st 3.321
2nd 1.902
3rd 1.308
4th 1.000
5th 0.759
Reverse 3.382

Though I picked up a R33 GTR diff the other day and I don't know if I can get such a tall ratio to suit it, which would be unfortunate.

[XRATED]

R200's are in everything Nissan... I'm sure with a little research you could find something close to 3.5/3.7.

Cheers

J

[Yonz]

Been extremely lazy over the last few months, though I've pulled my finger out once again and I'm back at it

Haven't had any luck chasing the diff gears I want. 3.583 from a NA Auto R33 would be ideal, no one has any though.

Pulled the subframe and got gktech solid bushes for it. The press at work sure came in handy for that, what a pain!

Pulled the engine for more access to make the fuel lines and turbo lines, also installed the flywheel and clutch

Got all my fuel system goodies and have put most of them in now. Aeromotive A1000 is directly under the surge. That hole punched stainless sits over the pump to at least offer some protection.

Opened up the main tank and was not greeted with a pleasant sight. The pump and fuel level were loose and free to float around, both clogged with gunk and the mounts had just about rusted away.
Needless to say, I dropped the tank.

Lucky I had a spare tank, so after cleaning the spiders and other creatures out of that I took the level out and cleaned it up. This guide came in quite handy

New 340LPH pump with -6 lines all the way to the surge and back

Since my old tank was going in the bin, I decided to rip out this sensor that is otherwise inaccessible. It connects to the fuel level. Any ideas what it does exactly?

Got a heap of parts waiting to go in, so updates should be somewhat regular... hopefully.

[KerrodR33]

Just read your thread, nice work! I'm in Darwin also so will be keen to see this out and sliding!

[Yonz]

Cheers.
Awesome, there is quite a few big events coming up soon that you won't want to miss.

I can't wait to get it out as well, though in the meantime my Maroon 31 is out there every event

[Yonz]

Made up some brackets to hold the new fuel lines and the old brake and tank breather lines. Cut and drilled some rubber spacers/holders which work quite well.

Bent up the hardline and flared the ends, it all sits pretty well I recon (Tek screws on the brackets are temporary while I'm taking everything in and out)

Started putting the braid onto the fittings, need to wrap the lines to avoid chaffing. Looks like it will be pretty snug next to the tank.

A1000 and Nuke filter are mounted with their nice rubber mounts

Got a oil drain for the turbo and head made up. AN fittings were going to be too bulky.

Once this fuel system is sorted I've got to finish up the wiring and the interior, fun times ahead.

Also, anyone have any idea how to remove a pin/wire from this plug?

Edited June 29, 2015 by barbados_26

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

^ pry the grey plastic retainer from the top side (where you see the pins).. then you can use a small jeweler flat head and push down the pins and eventually they will slide out along with the rear seal.

[Yonz]

Awesome, thanks for that

[R6n350GT]

update to cd009 to RB ?

[Yonz]

R6n350GT Not sure what you mean sorry mate. The box is a cd009 if that's what you're curious about.

Super slack at updating this thanks to my computer dying, going to Japan (Ebisu!!) and moving from the NT back to QLD, but the 33 has had steady progress during a busy year.

So now that I have a computer and internet again I can resume updates

Continuing from where I left off;

Finally found a 3.58 diff, I will be throwing a cusco 2 way amongst it soon enough

I needed to make up the fuel system wiring, so I mocked this up

Luckily I had some spare time at work and was able to throw this together

Sitting in the 33 all ready to go

Tight fit for the fuel lines, but they clear the tank. -8 feed and -6 return

More spare time at work and the rusty battery thingy is sandblasted, keen for a lick of paint

gktech LCA's rocked up. It was a bit of a guessing game putting them together, but I got most of it correct after confirming with Greg

​"The rose joints on these arms have 1" longer threaded section so the rose joint can safely be extended a total of 35mm (really it could probably go even further but we have to stop somewhere)." - Greg from gktech

gkteck knuckles were next on the list to assemble, so I ripped apart what I need from the factory knuckles

Easy as pie

Testing clearance with everything installed and I found I was fouling on the brake bracket, so I cut up some angle and welded them on

No more fouling!

Got the braided lines fitted up nice throughout the entire range of lock as well

I also redone all of the braided lines to the turbo. I forgot to install the heat shield stuff first time around

Engine, box and tailshaft all back in the car, hopefully never to come out again.

On the ground for the first time in well over a year (Have Cusco coils to go in soon, back is sitting way too low with current coils).

Interior back together

As she sits now, more or less

[eXquiSit]

nice update!

[Yonz]

Slowly been ticking things off the list since the start of the year, the last week has seen a massive jump in progress though... but here is a quick look as to what's happened over the past 5 months.

Cold side intercooler piping pieced together

Squeezing past the oil cooler

Welded together

4" intake and a new UNI Filter

CAD airbox

Airbox finished, including relocation of the power steering res and adding in a cooler

last of the intercooler piping pieced together and welded

Starting to tackle the wiring, new injector loom

Made a bracket for the Haltech MAP sensor

Checking and re-insulating the engine loom, while adding in the Haltech wires for MAP and air temp

Cusco 2 way, gktech hicas lockout and whiteline swaybar

General underbody shot

Whiteline swaybar, offset rack spacers and Cusco coilovers all round (got rid of the D2 coils)

Heat wrapped the cold side since it's running so close to the oil relocation and cooler

How she sits with all the new suspension bits

Making lines for the oil cooler

Piecing together the dump pipe

leak checking the fuel system​

And that is up to date as of this afternoon, it's looking pretty close now for the first start!