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Exhaust dump is almost complete, 3" to 3.5" after the 90
​Also wrapped the FL brake line in some heat reflective stuff, along with the vacuum lines to the gate

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Fitted the TPS and made up a bracket for the throttle cable

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Finished the lines to and from the oil cooler

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Did a by eye alignment to make it a little easier to push around, pretty happy with the lock :yes:

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Unfortunately we came across a leak inside the bellhousing when we were bleeding the clutch; must have overlooked one of the lines on the slave.
​So Engine and box will come out as one to make that easier, hopefully this weekend.

Decided to fire it up before ripping the engine and box out to fix the clutch leak.

Since it has to come out anyway, may as well check nothing else needs fixing while it's out.

So, we managed to finished off the dump and sort out the Haltech wideband

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Wideband loom insulated and dump fitted

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3.5" all the wayyyyyyy

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Also made this up to go on the back of my oil cooler

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Filled it up with water, the header tank up the back is a good 50mm higher than the rad, and 30mm higher than the water galleries for the turbo. Happy days :happy:

Powered the car up, calibrated the wideband and accessed the ECU... and the Cbomb was f**king locked!

I couldn't load a base map on it because the ECU firmware is too old for the new maps (currently available on the Haltech site).
I couldn't update the ECU firmware because the map is locked.
f**k!!! :rant:
Why the F any shithead feels they NEED to lock the map is beyond me. The ECU is basically bricked for the time being, all because some dickhead tuner was feeling precious.
The mob who tuned it don't know what the password might be, so that's just great. :angry:
So, I'll be contacting Haltech tomorrow to see if they can help me get a clean slate

Spoke to the guys at Haltech and they kindly linked me to their site with all the older versions of basemaps.

So all I has to do was keep uploading a map until the ECU said it was compatible, and once the locked map was no more I updated the ECU firmware and it was good to go.

Seems I was a little high strung last weekend for no reason :blush:

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I spent most of Saturday doing final checks and playing with the ECU. Calibrated the Wideband, activated the 3bar MAP, air temp sensor and boost solenoid.
​Ran into a small drama with the TPS, but I was able to dodgy that up for the run. Got a new plug on the way to fix it properly.

First start went well :D

Oil pressure picked up straight away, fuel pressure was solid, AFR was reading about 11 or 12, no leaks at all and no bad noises either. So pretty happy with that!

The engine and box are out of the car again now to fix the clutch leak and a few other little details.
​Wheel alignment and tune aren't far away now

Got some 19mm OD stainless pipe and made up a oil drain for the turbo, thanks to a mate an his new TIG

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Leak checked it and installed it, but not before covering it with some nice heat reflective stuff

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Fitted the turbo beanie while the engine was out, far out was it a tight fit. But it does look pretty :thumbsup:

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Also cut up some stainless to cover up the holes where the AC used to run

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Had some spare heat shield, so I figured I may as well throw it on this oil drain too

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Engine and box back in the car

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Hooked up the master and slave while the box was out to try find the leak, could not find anything wrong at all. Nipped up the lines while it was out, just incase, and bolted it back up to the engine... so I'm pretty confident whatever the "leak" was before, was just a case of tripping balls

Started this weekend off by modifying the header tank and Y pipe.

A mate welded a -6 drain onto the header tank, and another -6 onto the pipe for the return. This time the pipe is the proper size and has rolled ends

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Next up was bleeding the clutch, which went wonderfully. The clutch engages/disengages at about 1/3 of its travel from fully depressed :happy:

Then being in a happy mood I marked the coils, for no particular reason, as to which cylinder they belong

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I then removed the filter on the side of the block and started making up the lines for the remote filter. I placed the oil pressure sensor on the return line, incase the cooler shits itself I should know about it straight away, not after the sump is dry

Then just all the little bits and bobs. Radiator back in and fill with water, intercooler pipes back in, tailshaft back in, dump pipe back on... blah blah blah

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Next will be finishing the wiring for the gauges, making the screamer and a few other little things :D

  • 2 weeks later...

Kicked things off my removing the oil cooler, and actually fitting the shroud I made for it. Pretty happy with how snug it sits :)
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The fan pulls a pretty decent amount of air, so it shouldn't have any trouble managing my temps

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Hopefully the oil cooler never needs to come out, fitting it without taking the bumper off was a small mission

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After the cooler was fitted up I setup the relay for the fan, and then started running all the wires into the interior for all my gauges and etc

 

With the bulk of the wires ran inside I started making up brackets to hold everything. 1st up was the head unit

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Pretty happy with how sturdy it is. 3 screws and the entire cage comes out nice and easy

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Above the head unit I'll have 2 gauges (Oil temp and water temp), and next to its respective gauge there will be a switch for the oil cooler fan, and a momentary on/off for a water squirter for the oil cooler and radiator. Possibly overkill, but it's pretty easy to setup so why not.

It will mount off the AC screws and I will probably brace it from behind as well.

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Gauge bracket fitted up a treat, took a little more tinkering than I thought it might but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
Ohh, the head unit works too :)
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Screamer welded up and painted. Even cured it in the oven haha

Gloves on for exhaust wrap

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And the dump too

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Fitted up and looking good

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Started it up again and brought it up to operating temp. Found a couple more little things to fix, but it went pretty well :)
 

After a few minutes from cold it kept cutting out and wouldn't start unless the ECU water temp sensor was disconnected. I thought it would be running rich until a certain temp, then run leaner? It's AFR is around 11.3 so it's plenty rich already. 

I can't figure out why it was dying unless the sensor is stuffed?

 

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  • Like 2

Fixed everything from last nights run and gave it another crack today.

Not before fitting this baddie though

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Not a single drama with this one, very happy :D

Still doing that weird coolant temp shutoff thing, but that's pretty minor for the time being.

 

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  • Like 1

gktech shifter relocation arrived yesterday, so I fitted it up today

Always armed with Loctite (The reverse lockout bolt got a hefty amount)

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Marked up how much of the input shaft to chop off, as seen in the pic I went for 9mm

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This pic shows why it has to be chopped

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Underneath view

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Interior pieces still fit, and didn't even need to trim/cut anything!

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Quick vid from underneath, pretty happy with it so far

 

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ddayemmmmmmmmmmmm man I want a 6 spd in my R33.. mine's notchy and crunchy as... usually on the track at 7k rpm it won't go into 3rd or 4th without a massive slam.

Most of my mates mis shift and grind it, I just force it in like anal without lube.

On ‎20‎/‎07‎/‎2016 at 5:41 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

ddayemmmmmmmmmmmm man I want a 6 spd in my R33.. mine's notchy and crunchy as... usually on the track at 7k rpm it won't go into 3rd or 4th without a massive slam.

Most of my mates mis shift and grind it, I just force it in like anal without lube.

Yeah I know plenty of people that go through them pretty quick, so I figured I may as well try my luck with this box as it's meant to be much stronger... that and triple synchro goodness

Also... Left is my setup with 350Z box, right is standard R33 gtst
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in other news, got some more little jobs finished off

Voltmeter via a pushbutton that sits where the ashtray goes. All out of one piece of aluminium, took ages haha

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:)

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Got the wheel alignment sorted out today as well, so it's only a couple short weeks away from a tune now

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  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Tune is done and dusted, really happy with how it went :banana:

 

It developed a miss on one of the last runs of the day, but the tune was done by this point. Spend a hour or so trying to figure out what the problem was and put it down to spark, with coils being the first thing on the list.
My old man has an LS2 luckily, so I pinched his coils and it behaved the same, changed spark plugs, still the same, and finally changed the leads and BAM, problem solved! :D

So I have ordered some new leads and with any luck they'll arrive before the next Friday night drift at QR.

Fuel is 98

 

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  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Catch can arrived, fits a treat
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I'll be fixing up the breather soon :7_sweat_smile:

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Went to QR on the 19th Aug with the new leads and ran into the misfire issue again, tried changing a few things at the track but didn't have enough stuff to troubleshoot properly.

Got another set of leads off a mate to try, same thing.... so it's not the leads this time.
Ripped out the coils and loom, looked over the loom for damage and checked all my earths and everything looks fine.

Took my coils to a mate with a tester and BAM, 1 coil was on struggle street. YES! :banana: The problem has been found, I thought. Test drive around the block and it was still playing up.

At this point I still had a few ideas to try, but having been around the block about 10 times I figured I'd be pushing my luck. So, off to QR again, but this time with as many spares and tools as I could bring, and also a laptop for the ECU.

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Changing one thing at a time, one lap at a time.

We eventually noticed the MAP sensor was reading lower than what my boost gauge was, which led us to this sneaky f**ker.

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Looked fine until you actually paid attention to it.

So once we got rid of the filter and ran a new vacuum line, it was smooth sailing for the rest of the night :D

Also, fitted some H1 LED's after realising the old bulbs were rubbish
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Very happy with the gktech knuckles, both front and rear

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Needed to cover up the hole in the CAS after mending it at PITS

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So, Matsuri is locked in and I'm fixing a few small issues that need attention after QR, but very happy with how it's going!

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  • 1 month later...

Been a bit slack with updates, but things have been happening :7_sweat_smile:

Prep for Matsuri went well... I can't remember what all the little things were that I fixed, but more heat shielding was one of them.
With all the little things squared away I decided to focus on presentation a bit, paint (of course) being the first thing to come to mind.

But with some mates at the time talking about vinyl I decided to give it a go, so I bought one small roll for about $70 and watched a YouTube how-to :laugh:.

This turned out to be enough for the bonnet and quarter panels :cool:

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Because the clear was lifting in places I sanded it back a bit to try and stop the vinyl from eventually lifting due to it.

So I was pretty happy with the colour and the "ease" of application, so I bought some more to finish the car off

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I managed to get it all finished off a few days before Matsuri  (minus the rear bumper, because lazy)

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Performed without drama for almost the whole day haha

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Though eventually there was a few small issues that popped up, as you have to expect.

A snapped front wheel stud, a small fuel leak due to the cap not sealing properly, rear toe arm loose, offset rack spacers loose and massive bind at max lock. Managed to fix it all up and keep it going for the whole weekend, apart from a few hours lost on Sat night because the power steering belt snapped.

Also filling the catch can after a few laps, so I'm playing around with a few things to help that. Modified crossmember to bring the rack forward will also be going in soon.

Had an absolute killer time over the weekend, there just isn't enough time in the day haha

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And a few vids :)

 

  • Like 1

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