Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cheers, pretty stoked with how it turned out

Can't go wrong with vinyl when it comes to cost either; just under $400 was enough to get the whole car done.

Handled delaminated tyres, fuel, heat and more like a champ :D

  • 3 weeks later...

Got all of the little dramas from Matsuri fixed up, so tomorrow morning I'm off to a morning session at QR :D

 

Crossmember rack mounts moved 25mm forward

WP_20161116_15_05_12_Rich.jpg

 

Thanks to the trusty engine crane and seatbelts

WP_20161116_15_05_24_Rich.jpg

 

BAM, and the bind is gone!

WP_20161116_20_26_43_Rich.jpg

 

Also fixed a heap of little things, so pretty keen to get it out there again:banana:

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Headed out to QR last night, unfortunately after an hour of track time the oil pump gave up (suspected) :down:

My brother was driving at the time, but gopro footage shows about 3-4 seconds at about 2000rpm before he realised what the alarm was and turned the engine off.

Towed back to the pits and (after confirming there was no leaks from hoses and the sump was full) cranked it without ignition which revealed a really fast ticking noise and no build in oil pressure, so I'm pretty confident the pump gears shit themselves for some reason. :ermm:

So...
The plan is to remove the oil pump with the engine in the car and see what exactly I'm dealing with. Hopefully the crank collar is ok.

Any (relatively) cheap dry sump setups for sale? :laugh:

Tear down BEGIN!

WP_20161217_18_53_38_Rich.jpg

 

Rounding evident on the collar

WP_20161218_16_15_34_Rich.jpg

WP_20161218_16_15_41_Rich.jpg

 

Pump is rooted

WP_20161218_16_16_17_Rich.jpgWP_20161218_16_16_25_Rich.jpgWP_20161218_16_16_37_Rich.jpg

 

I think I'll get some Perspex and hang this on my wall...

WP_20161218_16_18_39_Rich.jpgWP_20161218_16_32_39_Rich.jpg

 

So I'll be removing the crank to fix up the collar (spline drive this time).
New bearings throughout and fixing anything else I might find along the way.

I get to give myself my own Christmas presents :laugh:

  • 4 weeks later...

Ripped the engine and box out over the Christmas holidays, everything is looking pretty good considering the failure

Had to get the grinder out to cut the cam cap baffle plate nuts off, dam things just spun. Raw Brokerage is the only place I could find online that sell the bolts, anyone know a better place?



Clutch is struggling with 4th gear, but it will do until a new turbo setup comes along

WP_20161224_17_00_49_Rich.jpg

 

Big ends are looking healthy :happy:

WP_20161224_17_02_03_Rich.jpg

WP_20161224_17_03_17_Rich.jpg

WP_20161224_17_02_40_Rich.jpg

WP_20161224_18_28_13_Rich.jpg

 

A bit of emery paper and the cams will come up a treat

WP_20161225_18_12_26_Rich.jpg

 

Crank will get a polish while it's getting the spline collar installed

WP_20161226_10_17_40_Rich.jpg

 

All the bearings, plastigauge, lube, Loctite, gaskets and fluids are either in the post or sitting in the shed... so as soon as everything arrives I can put her back together again. Hopefully around the start of Feb

 

While I was bored (after ripping everything apart), I started mounting up a front splitter. Curious to see how it will go :laugh:

WP_20161229_19_31_21_Rich.jpg

 

1 hour ago, Yonz said:

Had to get the grinder out to cut the cam cap baffle plate nuts off, dam things just spun. Raw Brokerage is the only place I could find online that sell the bolts, anyone know a better place?

Clutch is struggling with 4th gear, but it will do until a new turbo setup comes along

WP_20161224_17_00_49_Rich.jpg

Tomei do a stud and nut kit (pretty sure it's just rebranded ARP) that replaces all the bolts with studs. perfect run or RHD Japan 

Part numbers for washer that goes between the cam cap and bolt 01311-00711, bolt 13058-59S00, the washer on top of the baffle plate 08915-4361A, spring washer 08915-1361A and the nut 08911-20610. The place to get them would be Amayama or RHD Japan.

Could you do me a favor and measure the height of your flywheel?

  • Like 1

Dropped off the crank and spline drive to the machinist shop yesterday

Unfortunately the crack testing revealed some pretty bad cracking around the No.6 big end and main.

Luckily a mate has a good condition crank (will get it crack tested to make sure), so fingers crossed everything goes smoothly with this one

 

Found a pic of one of the last laps before the pump gave out :laugh:15977738_1911247445774485_1615082053375432178_n.jpg

Edited by Yonz
picture
2 hours ago, AngryRB said:

What oil pump was it? Stock RB30 or aftermarket ?

Aftermarket crank collar with a N1 pump and billet gears

 

2 hours ago, GH05T said:

dont use a splitter made of wood, seen it done, seen them catch fire.

I was planning on laying heat reflective tape over it for the first couple track days, to see how it goes before committing to something more substantial.
I'll be keeping a close eye on it, but if that isn't good enough I might just bite the bullet straight up.

 

18 minutes ago, ruinned said:

How many meters of wrap did it take to do the car ??

5 rolls that were 1.5m x 3m each

1 minute ago, Yonz said:

5 rolls that were 1.5m x 3m each

that's alright 15ms of any wrap is pretty cheap now days :D

how did u do the roof, since there is no weather strip there ??

 

yours looks awesome as well

Yeah, well worth doing if you have the patience for it :happy:

I did the inside of the ridges in the below pic as one sheet, then I layed the whole side of the car from the A pillar back with one sheet; which slightly overlapped the wrap on the centre of the roof.

t.jpg

 

Thanks, a YouTube tutorial was my only previous experience :laugh:

On ‎18‎/‎01‎/‎2017 at 11:16 AM, Yonz said:

Unfortunately the crack testing revealed some pretty bad cracking around the No.6 big end and main.

Faintly visible cracking in the pic. It looked pretty impressive with the dye penetrant glowing under the UV light

WP_20170123_09_43_26_Rich.jpg

 

Good news for the other crank though, just waiting on the collar to be fitted :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...