Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

[WA] RB28 T

Now we are coming to the conclusion of the build I thought I would chuck up a build thread of the overhaul of my R32 GTR completed by Galvsport in Perth, WA. If you haven’t heard of them I suggest you check them out on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/#!/Galvsport or the net http://www.galvsport.com/ really taking it to the next level for GTR’s and motorsport builds over here in WA.

Essentially I had a R32 GTST with a RB25 in it to compete in local motorsport, usual bolt ons etc delivering 375whp and this kept me happy for a brief period of time before the GTR bug bit, due to the plan from the get go being a built motor I found an example with a quality suspension and brake package with a popped motor and dropped it off to galvsport.

post-85139-0-62440400-1422324275_thumb.jpg

post-85139-0-72239900-1422324279_thumb.jpg

post-85139-0-20726400-1422324283_thumb.jpg

While awaiting its turn for Galvsport to start work, I had a Brad Stacey Weld in cage fitted, with the rear seat delete re-trim performed in house at Galvsport.

post-85139-0-70681800-1422324286_thumb.jpg

Also had the front dash and a few other interior bits and pieces flocked

post-85139-0-44175000-1422324290_thumb.jpg

Dropped, stripped, powder coates front and rear sub frame and re fitted with the Ikeya Formula gear that came with the car on the rear end, and Nismo gear for the front end.

Had the bay re-sprayed and a few other bits and pieces tidied up on the body

post-85139-0-49724700-1422324295_thumb.jpg

Scene missing, the motor assembled and dropped into place

post-85139-0-44999500-1422324302_thumb.jpg

post-85139-0-80205100-1422324312_thumb.jpg

Car drove off the Hoist last Friday and fired up first go, we will be getting some run in kms on it and a proper tune input for its first track outing early next week.

post-85139-0-29083500-1422324319_thumb.jpg

post-85139-0-49781600-1422324324_thumb.jpg

Cliff notes of the build:-

Brand New N1 Block

HKS 2.8 step 2 rotating assembly

HKS 272 cams and associated Valve train

Custom HKS cam covers made by GT Graphics

6 boost

Precision 6466 turbo

Flex fuel E85

ID2000’s

Aeromotive Eliminator pump

Speedflow lines

Getrag 6 speed box from R34 GTR

NPC Twin Plate clutch

Link G4+

Ikeya Formula rear end (not going to list it all to keep it brief, but you get the jist)

Nismo Front End (ditto)

AP Racing 4 spot front brakes

Project Mu Discs

2 x sparco Evo 3 seats

oh, also will be retaining a full functioning AC System - speedflow and galvsport can fix anything.

Thanks for reading and look forward to taking it to get some seat time at barbs and other local motorsport events ASAP.

Will update with results once it’s had its proper tune from All Star Garage.

I fail at getting pictures on SAU so as oppose to linked into the thread they are down the bottom.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453145-wa-rb28-t/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Nice build mate, you must be stoked to finally have it back - makes great power clearly!

Any future plans for it or just keep as is for the time being and enjoy?

for the time being i will just keep it as it is, it has been nearly 2 years in the build and i want to enjoy it a bit and lay down some lap times. Maybe towards the end of the year look at doing some big boy alcon brakes and aftermarket diff setup. also needs a respray is currently 50 shades of grey.

What happened to the lm gt4s? Also the retrim looks quite good in the rear, nice job :) looking forward to more

swapped for XT7s

This thing looks unreal! Keep us posted with how she goes on the track.

was great, took it out to RAC for a tuning session, didnt die, didnt crash didnt break all in all a good day!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453145-wa-rb28-t/#findComment-7490322
Share on other sites

http://www.wascc.com.au/Uploads/pdf/2015%20ALL%20EVENTS%20b.pdf

The March 5th, this Thursday, 9am to 4pm
Just needs cams license, If you never been to a tuning day, its very relaxed, and you go out when road cars are called.

No pressure, just a all day testing of your car, i believe its 30 minute sessions ( i forget ) and you get about 5 or so.

You can go out for 1 lap, comin, change stuff, then go straight back out again, one of the easiest track days you can goto.
No timing gear, so use ur phone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453145-wa-rb28-t/#findComment-7490371
Share on other sites

Ah yes, forgot about that.

If still interested, you can sign up for that on the day.

Racing Membership - $285

$50.00 for New Membership Joining Fee

This is our most popular membership allowing you to drive on Barbagallo Raceway

  • All the benefits of a Spectator Member PLUS:
  • FREE general admission to the V8 Supercars Championship round
  • Access to drive on the circuit in your Race car at club Tuning Days for a nominal fee
  • Participation in motor sport as a driver. (Additional CAMS competition licence fee applies)
  • Voting rights.
  • One FREE Race Tuning Day valued at $75 (not redeemable for cash)
  • Access to McCrackan House for all WA Sporting Car Club events
Edited by jay-rod
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453145-wa-rb28-t/#findComment-7490611
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • 4 months later...
On Saturday, 12 March 2016 at 3:43 PM, JH32 said:

hows this thing coming along man? getting some laps in?

"late response"

 

Essentially I got some decent laps in up until September last year, when I moved overseas for work, and sold everything but the car. However, have recently sent it back into galvsport to prepare it for Racewars 2017.

Cliff Notes:-

> Holinger Sequential

> new tune and will lean on it a touch harder for 8,250rpm as oppose to 7,500 running last year.

> will get it wrapped

> fit up the new wheels with fresh rubber for the event

> sort out the 4wd gremlin

> Rebuild the shocks which were starting to let go towards end of last year.

 

hoping to get a few days at rac and barbs in while back in Perth!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453145-wa-rb28-t/#findComment-7761685
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Was just taking a trip down memory lane and researching bits and pieces for the next stage. 

 

Racewars is done and dusted and back over seas, got the HKS livery done and a few tweaks nothing too major. 

 

FB_IMG_1504434110860.jpg.3408349dc8ec3b8e8c69568e315b36f2.jpg

 

FB_IMG_1504434156464.jpg.fb619e66e5f4acba2de6c2c4e0b8280e.jpg

 

FB_IMG_1504434151025.thumb.jpg.30f5b45828e9b2ce1df87e6f1ce49f9e.jpg

 

FB_IMG_1504434145139.jpg.0ceeebd54896cefc51c359ecb860ab99.jpg

 

FB_IMG_1504434171832.thumb.jpg.2f8da6dcbb7b62eeaa4c94579764bb0e.jpg

 

FB_IMG_1504434188248.thumb.jpg.361e71ecaa5b8bef5c315028ff9f0d19.jpg

 

FB_IMG_1504434216154.jpg.b5f0c3d083f618059bfefd52e2ed1c69.jpg

 

FB_IMG_1504434208746.thumb.jpg.bf028a5a329bb8a0f5fa81519340d42f.jpg

 

 

 

Next stage really consists of prep for RW18 (nothing major), overhauling the interior (all the dry carbon) and prepping to for export to the UK (where i am currently living) 

Livery is coming off, basically going to All Black. 

 

Watch this space 

 

 

 

FB_IMG_1504434133947.jpg

  • Like 7
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453145-wa-rb28-t/#findComment-7847959
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Well seems I don't pay too much attention to SAU as of late. 

 

Racewars 18 was run with a big improvement over last year thanks to a retune from WA Racing Developments. 

and the HKS was removed in favour of some fresh panel and paint, with new rims to follow.  Thanks to Panelhaus in Canningvale for the so far top job, should be off to Madinc in the near future to protect the paint and I might get to drive it this year.  

 

 

 

et.png

IMG_9547.jpg

IMG_9548.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453145-wa-rb28-t/#findComment-7892125
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, the cause of fuel spills and smells from the top of the tank is almost always the rubber hoses that are up there, not the tank seal.
    • 1. No, as you say you can remove the connectors and fuel lines. Before you do make sure you remove fuel pump fuse and crank the starter a few times to release pressure, and also loosen the fuel cap (just in case the tank is slightly pressurised) as it will pump out the lines otherwise 2. Not necessary but you are right, if it is the factory pump it is at risk of failing after 25 years....Changing it is not hard but potentially not trivial as you have to make sure you have the right pickup/sock for the pump to suit the tank, need to make wiring connections (crimped butt connectors would be fine) and have to mount/adapt the new pump in the right place in the cradle. Not impossible but don't start the job if you aren't confident. Also, the plastic nut that holds that seal in place can be really hard to remove. If you don't have a fuel nut removal tool it generally requires a big screwdriver or similar to bash the ring around a few times before you can get it by hand. Also the fuel lines can be very sticky on the tank lid fittings, hose removal pliers can help or if not twist the hose on the fitting (eg with linesperson's pliers) to break the seal before you try and remove it. Finally, mark the feed and return hoses so you don't put them on backwards and seal them with an m8 bolt to stop crap getting into the lines while working. Add a little grease in the threads of the plastic lid when you go to do it back up as a gift to your future self, and make sure you put it on evenly/not cross threaded.  Having said all that, most likely the lid just needs to be either tightened or removed and put back on without being cross threaded...the seal itself is usually pretty good.
    • Another weekend and another project I have questions about.... I bought a fuel tank sender O ring to install on the car because I'm quite sus on what I've got now.  1. No "whooosh" sound when opening fuel cap 2. If I fill up full tank, there will be a small leak under the car and it comes from the top of the fuel tank, dripping along the side. Stops after a short while 3. Hot days = 50/50 chance to get high as a kite inside the cabin if the car was in the sun for too long This is what I bought: https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/1734279900 My plan was to just replace the O ring but I've got some questions: 1. Does the whole fuel pump assembly need to come out for me to replace the O ring?         Or, could I unplug all the connectors and fuel lines at the top, take off the twisty part (17343) and put in the O ring from the top?  2. Is it a very common thing for everyone to just change the pump whenever doing this?        I see the Walbro 255 gets thrown in a lot but I've got no issues with my pump so far. When I did the tune, I asked the guy to check my fuel pressure and he said there were no issues too. But is it just a good idea to change to the 255 anyway as the old unit may have been in there for so long? The 255 seems to be a direct fit for GTT (I got no soldering iron)  
    • Normal speedtek issues, bin it and go cdoo# or 8hp. So many issues with these gearsets, a mate went through 3 rebuilds and multiple parts with heat, bearing and vibration issues.  
    • I wouldn't go near them, they are rubber seals for a reason. Just chuck new cam cover seals, half moons and the spacers for the screws every decade or two. I add a really thin layer of silicone too and it seems to hold together OK  
×
×
  • Create New...