Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey sau,

I'm having an issue while bleeding the brakes on my r33 gtst. I have gone through 3 bottles of dot 4 brake fluid already (system is now clear and no dirty fluid anymore). The method I'm using is a combo of the 2 man method and 1 man method with the brake bleeder kit you get with the small bottle etc. I've been using the 2 man method on the front calipers but for the rears I've been using the one man kit and can clearly see so many air bubbles coming out of the rear calipers down into the clear tube.

I haven't left the bmc to run dry, been careful to keep filling when getting low. The air bubbles won't stop. I'm about to go try the gravity bleed method and see what happens.

Things to note are that there wasn't any bubbles at all in the system until I had to change my front caliper mid way through the bleed as I accidentally cross threaded the bleeder nipple hole on my caliper so I swapped it over for another 33 gtst caliper in the garage, after that I've been having the issue with constant air bubbles and a spongy brake pedal that wont stiffen up at all... I thought that all those new air bubbles would disappear just as quick due to having to change a caliper over mid way and the loss of fluid etc would be causing it but I don't know anymore the bubbles on the rear calipers are endless and only started appearing after I changed the front caliper...

Anyone have a similar experience or any ideas? Also I've read different things about gravity bleeding and how people do it one by one or cracking all four nipples at the same time and just waiting.

Does your car have ABS?

If so.. you may have air pockets in the ABS unit, just crack the top bleed points and do what you were doing before.. pedal down, open/close, pedal up.. then bleed the rears...

Once you're done, go on to a quiet area and when safe try to kick in ABS.. to get the pump going. Then back home and bleed some more, that should do the trick.

  • Like 1

Does your car have ABS?

If so.. you may have air pockets in the ABS unit, just crack the top bleed points and do what you were doing before.. pedal down, open/close, pedal up.. then bleed the rears...

Once you're done, go on to a quiet area and when safe try to kick in ABS.. to get the pump going. Then back home and bleed some more, that should do the trick.

Yes it does have ABS. I may try bleeding that then and see how I go. Thanks for the suggestion.

This may be abit of a silly question but the caliper I put on last night had a damaged piston dust boot so I removed a good one from a spare caliper and put it on the newer caliper. However another one next to it looks like it had a small split but I didn't replace that one. Was wondering how bad a little tiny split could be on a dust boot if anyone here knows? I may go back downstairs and change it just to be safe if suggested.

I had a problem with one of those suction bleeders. When you suck fluid, it leaks air past the nipple thread.

So i never could tell if it was done properly.

The two man method uses pressure and is the best way.

I had a problem with one of those suction bleeders. When you suck fluid, it leaks air past the nipple thread.

So i never could tell if it was done properly.

The two man method uses pressure and is the best way.

Yeah I'm going to try the 2 man method on the rear when I can get a helper tonight as I think it's the best way. Has anyone here tried the gravity method?

So abit of an update. Two man bled the brakes all around. No more air bubbles and pedal feels stiffer now. Haven't taken it for a drive but feels a lot different now... I think I will be chucking that one man bleeder kit in the bin.

My one man brake bleed kit is a simple clear hose into a clean tin, hose goes from nipple over top arm and into tin, done cost $2 been using it for 8yrs... Never fails

Sounds like you may have found the problem.

To answer your earlier question, the dust boots have no bearing on the sealing of the piston. They just keep dust and moisture out, which protects the piston assembly from corroding and getting jammed. It's there for longevity of the caliper, rather than performing any sealing / operational function.

Edited by warps

Sounds like you may have found the problem.

To answer your earlier question, the dust boots have no bearing on the sealing of the piston. They just keep dust and moisture out, which protects the piston assembly from corroding and getting jammed. It's there for longevity of the caliper, rather than performing any sealing / operational function.

Cheers thanks for the info :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...