Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It such high PSI unusual? I know it's above what is recommended so i'm looking at wastegate actuators right now.

I have tomei turbo elbow, 3" back non-cat exhaust + intercooler.

If this isn't unusual since people put the RB20 actuator on the RB25 is the other way around possible?

Thanks

edit: hmm now it gets to like 11-12.5 psi and it's like the engine is cutting. Seems I might have another issue.

It isn't tuned yet could be the problem there.

Edited by Kanaric

It's not normal. Stock RB20 boost is about 10 psi. Add a big cooler, a big exhaust and maybe open up the intake and you can reasonably expect to see 12-13 psi without needing a boost controller. Almost certainly not well controlled 12-13 psi though - you'd probably see it peak at that and fall well off towards 10-11 at high revs. 15 psi though is out of bounds. It shouldn't happen without a boost controller.

An RB20 should not be boost cutting at 11-12 psi unless you have a highflow turbo. There is no real "boost cut" in the 20 ECU. There is a load cut which is essentially when you exceed a certain amount of AFM signal. If you put a big turbo on then you can pull more air at the same boost and trigger that cut.

If the engine is untuned and for some reason the ignition timing is quite retarded then you might have excessively nasty exhaust temperatures and might be spinning the turbo up hard enough to make really high boost. Might. Maybe. Don't quote me on it.

I remember when I had stock turbo and injectors, Ran it @ 14psi on the stock ecu with a walbro 255lph pump and it started to lean out (13.5's) A/f. Maybe I could have richened it back up if I had a ecu that could tune back then. The stock injectors are 270cc tho so maybe not.

Maybe I could have richened it back up if I had a ecu that could tune back then.

Unlikely that you could have richened it back up with a tuneable ECU. The top end of the fuel map in RB20 ECUs is up to 100% duty cycle - effectively using all the available injector. Like 10:1 mixtures. If it was leaning out then it was not going to be possible to add fuel without adding physical capacity. I effectively had to turn my boost back from ~14 to ~13 psi when I tuned my RB20 in order to not run the injectors over the top of their capacity.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
×
×
  • Create New...