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Parting out r32 gtr half cut let me know what you need . Also have rear end minus shafts and hubs

R32 gtr front seats $600 no rips

Tein coilovers $550

Rear non vspec diff looks very fresh stock 2 way $450

Nismo front strut brace $100

Extra gear box $500

R34 gtr parts

Parting out motor number one cylinder only had 100 psi diagnosed ring. Let me know what you need

Hks 2530 X2 has the usual bit of play still in good working order $2000

Mines ecu $500

Mines front pipe damage ask for pics $100

Mines 3 inch cat $150

Mines dump pipes $350 pair bell mouth

Excedy tripple plate carbon clutch plenty of meat left $1500

6 speed getrag 70 thou kms with transfer case and shifter $5000

Brembo 6 pot 4 pot brakes with rotors brake lines and adaptors $3500

Near new recaro sr6 $900

Nismo cluster $400

Located belmont nsw

Pick up or can post australia wide

post-90277-14225667016023_thumb.jpg

post-90277-1422566738704_thumb.jpg

All pms replied

0402555849 or pm for pictures

Ill check on the other parts you guys have requested tomorrow morning

Should have a air box and definetly still have the power steering pump with bracket

Will you sell the exhaust side cam cover from the r34 motor? If so how much?

  • 2 weeks later...

Brembos sold

Nismo brace sold

R32 gtr dr seat sold

Recaro sr6 is one seat . I'll up load some more pics

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    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
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