Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Rb20 Oil Filter Stuck...

CtrldKilla

By CtrldKilla,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

CtrldKilla Rookie

CtrldKilla

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, my first post on here, I've recently bought an R32 GTS-T and I've decided to do an oil change since the oil levels were quite low.

I have drained the sump however I can't seem to get the oil filter off. It's a K&N filter and I know that some K&N filters have a exposed bolt that you can use to tighten/untighten but this one doesn't appear to have that.

Any ideas for getting it out? It's in a shit of a spot (as most of you probably know).

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453360-r32-rb20-oil-filter-stuck/
Share on other sites
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Filter wrench,either the strap type or three legged self adjusting thing work for me.

Failing that hammer a screwdriver through it close to the thread end and turn it.

What are you using?

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted (edited)

Filter wrench,either the strap type or three legged self adjusting thing work for me.

Failing that hammer a screwdriver through it close to the thread end and turn it.

What are you using?

Not so close to the thread end that you hit the thread but, or aim beside the thread.

Just gotta cover all bases. Wont be much fun if the thread on the filter stud is wrecked :)

The strap type filter wrenches are usually the best, because you have so many options with what you can use to get them off (e.g. extension bar, adjustable head ratchet etc.)

I use mine on heavy machinery filters all the time, and it has worked on just about every filter cartridge I've ever put it on. Should have no trouble on a Z145a.

When you install the new ones follow the instructions. They don't need to be done up as tight as you can get them + 1 turn. Usually when it touches the o-ring, go another 2/3 of a turn.

Edited by 89CAL
tranman Enthusiast

tranman

Posted
Posted

You can use a spare suitably sized hose clamp (like the cooler piping ones) worth junking. Tighten it onto the filter (bad ass tight) with a ratchet. Then using a hammer and screwdriver/rod extension, hammer the raised section of the hose clamp to get the initial rotation started.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • GTSBoy
      braided lines for the turbos

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • sunsetR33
      braided lines for the turbos

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Alright I understand. The most likely case is probably gonna be that I just keep the OEM unit in the car as long as it works.
×
×
  • Create New...