Engine startup problem

[Guest ApocalypseZ]

i got my r33 gtst for over a month now, but recently the engine wont start. So i thought the battery was dead and went and got the battery recharge and check out but the guy said the battery is still full. Anyhow the problem still happen after i got the battery check out, each time i cant start my engine i either have to hook it up to another car battery or keep the key turn and apply a lil acceleration then engine will start. My friend told me its could be my spark plug, and my dad told me it got to do with the battery or the starter motor. Anyone know the source of the problem??

[Revhead]

Need more info mate.

Does the engine wind over REALLY slowly? Do the lights dim nearly to the point of going out? If you start it with the headlights on, does it crank over much slower? If yes to these then it'll be a power problem, whether it be a dead battery or something like an earth leak. It may also be a dead starter, or more likely the solenoid on the starter - starters normally either work or they don't though, unless you have some weird short in it (I've seen it happen). Could also be one or more dead/dying coil packs (on top of the spark plugs), they are a fairly common problem now the cars are getting towards 10 years old.

Another unlikely cause could be a clutch that doesn't disengage - does it start more easily if it's out of gear, rather than in gear with the clutch in?

If it's a spark plug problem, the engine should turn over nice and quickly but will be hard to start, and will also run badly.

I'm a little unsure of why opening the throttle would help - perhaps the injectors need a clean, or the throttle body/idle air bypass is full of garbage?

There's a few things to get you started anyway. Let us know if you find anything else.

[Guest ApocalypseZ]

Ok let me refrase it more clearly, well just say i havent start the car up today, and when i do it wont start. It will apear to be out of battery when i turn the key light and other electrical stuff still work its not dim and stuff so i think its not a battery problem. But the engine wont start unless i hook up the battery with another car or i keep the key turned to the ignition position and apply my foot on the accelerator then the engine will enventually start.

At that point the engine ignition sound will crank slowly at first then become faster and faster till it start. Once i am able to get it started for the day i dont have starting up problem. So its like if the engine is off for a period of time say overnight for example then i wouldnt be able to start it normaly the next day.

Anyhow i am going to get my spark plug replace within this week. Planning on getting either Denso Iridium or Ngk Iridium IX, but i still dont know what heat range and size of plug to use. I've come across some documentation on net that advice to use a 0.8 mm gapping for R33 gtst and i was also adviced by a mechanic that when putting in the spark plug i got to turn it to the right amount of turn to get the best performance.

So can you post up what size of spark plug and heat range and how many turn i should turn it that would be a great help. By the way i am new to this forum and new to skyline hehe so i still have a lot to learn. Thanks for replying to the above post and if the problem still occur after i change the spark i will let you know.

[Revhead]

To be honest I can't see your spark plugs causing a problem, unless they're leaking current. I don't remember what size my plug are, but they're platinum plugs (not cheap but last for ages) and I'm pretty sure they're a heat range 7.

From what you've said, it sounds like if you have the car running and then turn it off, it'll start within say 10 mins of that but not the next day? If it'll start up easily after it's already been running, this rules out pretty much any mechanical interference (clutch, gearbox, engine), leaving only current or an electronic component.

Sounds like you have either a current leak somewhere, and/or your starter motor is a bit iffy. A dodgy solenoid can draw significantly more current than a good one, hence the need to run two batteries (even if the 'line battery is bloody tiny ) I'd be taking it to an auto electrician, at least for a bit of advice.

[Guest Znarfs]

almost sounds like you're flooding it . . . . don't use the gas pedal when starting UNTIL it starts. Get your cold start valve checked - may need a clean and reset . . .

"that's my 10 cents worth . . . my 2 cents is free"

[blind_elk]

Originally posted by ApocalypseZ

Ok let me refrase it more clearly, well just say i havent start the car up today, and when i do it wont start. It will apear to be out of battery when i turn the key light and other electrical stuff still work its not dim and stuff so i think its not a battery problem. But the engine wont start unless i hook up the battery with another car or i keep the key turned to the ignition position and apply my foot on the accelerator then the engine will enventually start.  

      At that point the engine ignition sound will crank slowly at first then become faster and faster till it start. Once i am able to get it started for the day i dont have starting up problem. So its like if the engine is off for a period of time say overnight for example then i wouldnt be able to start it normaly the next day.

     Anyhow i am going to get my spark plug replace within this week. Planning on getting either Denso Iridium or Ngk Iridium IX, but i still dont know what heat range and size of plug to use. I've come across some documentation on net that advice to use a 0.8 mm gapping for R33 gtst and i was also adviced by a mechanic that when putting in the spark plug i got to turn it to the right amount of turn to get the best performance.  

     So can you post up what size of spark plug and heat range and how many turn i should turn it that would be a great help. By the way i am new to this forum and new to skyline hehe so i still have a lot to learn. Thanks for replying to the above post and if the problem still occur after i change the spark i will let you know.

Does the engine actually turn over, or does the solenoid just click-click-click? If it does, install a relay - use the 'start' trigger wire to switch the relay, and get the relay to feed battery power to the solenoid. (you could test this by feeding power straight to the 'start' terminal on the starter motor)

As for aligning your spark plugs, that is really getting serious to get the last 1/10 of a kW. And really, it can only be done with the head off, because you are trying to line the plug electrodes up so that they send the spark into the middle of the combustion chamber.

Just bung in the new plugs (I'm using NGK PFR6B-11 (platinum), gapped to 1 mm), and NGK recommend 20 ft-lb tension (and that's not a lot of tension) in a cold engine.

[dAVE]

doubt its spark plugs or coils. It usually starts easily, but will miss on idle or in acceleration.

I would be looking else where... most likely something to do with cold start etc.

on plugs, on my r33 im using ngk's gapped to .8.. anything over that and my car misses.

[blind_elk]

Also, do you know for certain that its nice and clean and dry around the spark plugs / coils. Bit of moisture hanging around when its cold could be shorting the spark to earth against the head.

[Guest ApocalypseZ]

thanks you for ur help guys though it turn out to be the battery fault and the charger. So right now i am looking into buying another battery of the same type cause i have tried takin it for a recharge but still no good. By the way whats that tubing that is connected to the battery anyone know whats that for?

[Revhead]

I believe it's overflow, but I've never actually taken that much notice of it to be honest. Can anyone confirm/correct?