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Valve Float?....... Next Step?


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still want to fit Japanese branded springs? You do don't you, go on, fit them please

what kills me is your blanket statement that japanese springs don't work.

so there is nobody out there with japanese branded valve springs with success lol you're kidding yourself aren't you

Edited by mr skidz
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Well joeys spring broke in his engine and destroyed it.

what was the cause of the spring breaking was it installed correctly wouldn't be the first time a spring has broken and I'm sure there are many many circumstances where non japanese branded valve springs have let go just saying Edited by mr skidz
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what kills me is your blanket statement that japanese springs don't work.

so there is nobody out there with japanese branded valve springs with success lol you're kidding yourself aren't you

the only way to make them even semi work is to not cut the valve seats, but then the valves leak and defeats the purpose of rebuilding the head in the first place

95% of Japanese part are bolt in parts with factory specifications and once the factory specs are gone they no longer work

Paul had half a Japanese catalogue in his car and it just cracked 400kw, once he took out half the Japanese stuff and went with Australian made stuff he is now doing 475atw with smaller turbos, why? Cause there are no restrictions anymore and everything works properly

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My mate is making 680kw 38psi boost with tomei type C springs

Unsure of anything else but those seem to be working

My engine builder suggested made in USA springs over the jap ones also

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what was the cause of the spring breaking was it installed correctly wouldn't be the first time a spring has broken and I'm sure there are many many circumstances where non japanese branded valve springs have let go just saying

Car ran fine for 10 thou ks, I would have assumed that if it was incorrect installation it would have failed before then

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Springs are supposed to have a installed seat pressure.

Has anyone checked the Jap brands at seat VS the others at seat?

Most people simply fit them without looking/thinking twice.

You supposed to know your free length which varies when reseating valves then check it before fitting to each valve individually, its part of blue printing the head.

Dont forget to check for coil bind depending on the lift and reinstalled height.

To break a spring may point to a scratch on one leading to a fatigue crack or over rev or a softened spring.

Now that leads me to question if the Jap springs are good when new but may be softening with repeated heat cycles.....food for thought.....

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Yea I stated earlier that the reason we took them out was due to the fact we couldn't get the correct seat pressure without having a bind problem even with just using a pon cam

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Hey guys.

Reading through this thread had made me wonder. Couple of months ago i dyno my car and it wouldn't make any more power above 17 psi. I thought i hit a massive restriction. But now i'm thinking if it's valve float.

At 16 psi it made this.

post-51169-0-89120200-1434982168_thumb.jpg

And at 17 psi it made this. Is this valve float?

post-51169-0-05887600-1434982196_thumb.jpg

Thanks in advance.

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