Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can say the statement is shit all you like, but if you actually have a decent engine builder that checks the seat pressure you will find you can't get enough seat pressure without the creating a coil bind situation because they are made to soft from factory

You can say the statement is shit all you like, but if you actually have a decent engine builder that checks the seat pressure you will find you can't get enough seat pressure without the creating a coil bind situation because they are made to soft from factory

I agree but that's because you chose the wrong spring it's not japan's fault that the spring don't work it's yours.

your statement still makes no sense

Edited by mr skidz

we have all used different brand and model of springs and they all have the same issue, it's ok we've made the mistakes and are happy to pass on the information. If you still choose to buy them and then end up paying twice, I really don't care cause I've learnt from my mistakes and won't be making them again

Well since you're tomei springs were to soft what are they rated at and what were they measured at, tell me what the difference was because I have some here that I haven't used yet and I plan on checking them before installing them if you are correct then I will bow to your comment

Might have been 60 was 3 years ago, but you're welcome to ask Joey or piggaz about their experience with Japanese valve springs. Make sure you ask Joey tho cause his is definitely a story you'll want to hear

lol is that what you had before?

if so what rate springs did you settle for piggaz ?

That's what I installed, yes. I don't know how it got past me but when the stupid thing was carrying on like a two bob tart on the dyno I went and saw the bloke that put the engine together. That's what the seat pressures were. We

ripped them out and put in a camtech single spring and Ti retainer package (which fit SO much better then the previous stuff), put it back on the dyno and issue was gone.

19 psi, 6500 rpm it would float at. Go half throttle it would go to 8000, give it more boost and it would fluff around at 5000 rpm.

Best bit was the camtech package was so much cheaper than the jap stuff, fit as it should and did the job.

Never tested what the seat pressures were as the swap was done in the car. But it went onto hold 30 psi no problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mainly being afraid of breaking something on something i've poured so much money into haha
    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
×
×
  • Create New...