Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can say the statement is shit all you like, but if you actually have a decent engine builder that checks the seat pressure you will find you can't get enough seat pressure without the creating a coil bind situation because they are made to soft from factory

You can say the statement is shit all you like, but if you actually have a decent engine builder that checks the seat pressure you will find you can't get enough seat pressure without the creating a coil bind situation because they are made to soft from factory

I agree but that's because you chose the wrong spring it's not japan's fault that the spring don't work it's yours.

your statement still makes no sense

Edited by mr skidz

we have all used different brand and model of springs and they all have the same issue, it's ok we've made the mistakes and are happy to pass on the information. If you still choose to buy them and then end up paying twice, I really don't care cause I've learnt from my mistakes and won't be making them again

Well since you're tomei springs were to soft what are they rated at and what were they measured at, tell me what the difference was because I have some here that I haven't used yet and I plan on checking them before installing them if you are correct then I will bow to your comment

Might have been 60 was 3 years ago, but you're welcome to ask Joey or piggaz about their experience with Japanese valve springs. Make sure you ask Joey tho cause his is definitely a story you'll want to hear

lol is that what you had before?

if so what rate springs did you settle for piggaz ?

That's what I installed, yes. I don't know how it got past me but when the stupid thing was carrying on like a two bob tart on the dyno I went and saw the bloke that put the engine together. That's what the seat pressures were. We

ripped them out and put in a camtech single spring and Ti retainer package (which fit SO much better then the previous stuff), put it back on the dyno and issue was gone.

19 psi, 6500 rpm it would float at. Go half throttle it would go to 8000, give it more boost and it would fluff around at 5000 rpm.

Best bit was the camtech package was so much cheaper than the jap stuff, fit as it should and did the job.

Never tested what the seat pressures were as the swap was done in the car. But it went onto hold 30 psi no problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...