Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wrecking R33 GTR V-SPEC

Nismo speedo cluster $450
Nismo centre gauges $200
Hks boost gauge $80
Hks temp gauge $80
Brembos front and rear $1500
Mines Ecu $200
Bmc $150
Gearbox pull type $800
Rear seat $200
Front seats SOLD
Grill mint $200
Bonnet with bonnet pins $350
Headlights $350 pair
N1 front bar with lip $500
Front Gaurds $400 pair
Gaurd risers $100 pair
Sideskirts 2 peice $150
Front Reo $150
Rear boot and wing $250
Rear diff v spec $300
Rear drive shafts $150 each
Subframe bracing $150
Tailshaft $100
Air con set up $150
Power steer pump $150
Clutch booster $ 50
Intercooler $100
Standard Intercooler piping $100
Bov set up with recirc $200
Door cards $200 set
Boot trim $100
Drivers window switch $120
Front shafts $50 each
Engine Wiring loom $200
Ignition barrel and locks $150
Rear bar $80
Rolling shell straight good paint no interior no panels track only $1500
Most things available

GOLD COAST BUT CAN POST

0487924497

TEXT FOR PICTURES PLEASE

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453592-wrecking-r33-gtr-vspec/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, you have the bracket for the G sensor? (located between the center console and the gear stick). If so, let me know as i am looking for one.

do you have the gear stick leather boot?

and also the triangle things on the inside of the door where the mirrors are. forgot what they are called hahaha

Edited by samrazor

hello im interested in your door cards if still available, are you able to take pictures for me and close ups please. and maybe wanting lip and front bar . and also would like to enquire about the plastic surrounds that are over and under the steering wheel if you have them.and your engine wiring loom can i have pictures and need as much info about the loom , condition and added extras applied previously , like splicing in to it. the boot trim as well i am interested in mainly the plastic part that runs across the back part of the boot it runs in between the rear lights, but ill will take all the boot trimmings , also radiator rubber grommets for holding the radiator.

Edited by ggs
  • 2 weeks later...

I've bought a number of parts off this guy with no problem over the last 12 months, but he seems to have gone missing a couple of weeks ago, and hasn't replied to a number of phone calls and SMS's asking if I could call in and grab some parts he said he had, 3 minutes earlier. Not sure what has happened????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
×
×
  • Create New...