Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr - Adjustable Fr Camber Arms - Suggestions?


Recommended Posts

Hey all,

My R32 GTR has some pretty cheap adjustable upper camber arms on the front, which have always creaked and groaned for as long as I have owned the car. Today, the front left finally gave up the ghost and broke. (Luckily, just as I bumped up the driveway coming home and not on the M5 at 110km/h). So I am looking at replacing them with some quality bits.

Anyone have any suggestions / recommendations ?

The car is street driven, but I use it for track work and motorkhana competitions, so I like to be able to adjust the camber depending on the use.

I have flicked through the forum and searched, and read a few threads but they're all old and possibly outdated.

Any help would be great, cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the UAS ones with the pivot in the middle are probably the only ones with any degree of respectability. All the rest are just variations on the stockers with differently (poorly) engineered length adjustment.

The main problem is that they are fairly expensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys - Have had a look at the UAS and Hardrace ones. Seem to be much of a muchness really. I'm somewhat desperate for them, so I don't think I can hang out for GKTech to release something. Might see what availability there is for Hardrace and UAS, and let that make the decision for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Imteresting. Hardrace don't show them on their own site.

Nevertheless, those are an example of the shitty option. The UAS ones are free to twist, so they unload the horrible loadings that occur in R32/Z32 upper arms. Especially when you wind in more caster with adjustable caster arms. That's why I said the only "respectable" arms were probably the UAS ones.

The Nismo copy ones that GK-Tech are supposedly going to make are the same idea as the UAS ones - they offer rotation around the centre pin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are on the Hardrace site - http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_714_722&product_id=238

But I see your point about the design.

Imteresting. Hardrace don't show them on their own site.

Nevertheless, those are an example of the shitty option. The UAS ones are free to twist, so they unload the horrible loadings that occur in R32/Z32 upper arms. Especially when you wind in more caster with adjustable caster arms. That's why I said the only "respectable" arms were probably the UAS ones.

The Nismo copy ones that GK-Tech are supposedly going to make are the same idea as the UAS ones - they offer rotation around the centre pin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ha! I googled into the site (didn't browse from the front page) and went straight to the normal R32 page, where they don't list those front uppers, even though they would also suit!

Yeah I got caught out on that too... went looking for something I knew was there before I realised they had a separate page for R32, and R32 GTR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ikeya formula

www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/

Do they do an adjustable design? I can see the fixed size ones, which would be good, except I like to be able to adjust them at home depending on what event I am doing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another way to minimise the twisting issue is to get arms that use bushes rather than bearings, limited options though. Z1 motorsports do a bushed (& bearing option too) fuca for z32 but you'd need to confirm it would fit. Based of midori design (hardrace style is also) with different ends.

http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=6_8&products_id=6190

Otherwise eccentric bushes in your stock arms. If swapping to bearing arms though it's recommended to swap to rose jointed tension rods also.

UAS v2 arms are the ideal option though, we need a group buy!

Edited by lidz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pull the mounting bracket out. Weld up the hole and redrill the front mount point lower. This is effectively the Nismo bracket. You then don't have to worry about the centre bearing and you can just run a normal arm which you can also shorten if you want.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another way to minimise the twisting issue is to get arms that use bushes rather than bearings, limited options though. Z1 motorsports do a bushed (& bearing option too) fuca for z32 but you'd need to confirm it would fit. Based of midori design (hardrace style is also) with different ends.

http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=6_8&products_id=6190

Otherwise eccentric bushes in your stock arms. If swapping to bearing arms though it's recommended to swap to rose jointed tension rods also.

UAS v2 arms are the ideal option though, we need a group buy!

I have already spoken to Hornet about this. I'm keen for a group buy if there's enough interest. I'm not in a rush so I was hoping GKTech would come out with their version sooner or later.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I am more and more leaning towards the UAS arms. I had decided to buy the HardRace ones today, to fit in the meantime until I could get my hands on the UAS set for the long term. However, I went to JDMYard today to buy them, only to be told a bloke had bought the last set earlier on in the day. So I am still without a set and looking to get something sorted. I've never organised (or even been part of) a group buy before, does anyone know what the go is? Got a contact at UAS? Forum member? I'm keen to get them asap. I have an event on 7th March I need the car set up well and truly before then.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello,new to the group, I bought a R32 from auction recently, wondering if anyone knows the cars history, seems to have the usual go fast bits on it, plan is to do an engine swap- add 2 extra cylinders and 1 extra turbo. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/i4rjmlzubjbwjtguh6f4s/IMG20241011140744.jpg?rlkey=q0lumm251377vknbqktfwrycq&st=7scvwx4e&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ro24qmwzlczzlfsr4y05x/Screenshot_2024-10-10-10-49-23-90_9a2f5bb2149dae94cd1e190effc09b33.jpg?rlkey=oyguh26ttshlf04ccp48odf4v&st=xloae97b&dl=0   New to forums and posting pics, if links don't work, take it easy on me, 42yrs old and I tune carburettors!!  
    • As far as I know, Infiniti stopped importing vehicles before 2020, even though they were still selling their stock for at least a year or 2 after that, they were older build years, therefore, you can import a 2020 400R, because you couldn't buy an AuDM 2020 built Q50 RS. As for insurance, you might need to go through one of the enthusiast insurance companies, they tend to insure a lot more grey import models than the mainstream insurers as Duncan mentioned.
    • loved seeing the zenvo on the a1 just after the hatfield tunnel i was the guy in the white van trying to egg you on it sounded awesome and those exhausts glowing red inside insane cheers for the thumbs up tim and tom.
    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
×
×
  • Create New...