Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys il be changing gearbox fluid soon. Il be using Castrol transmax Z in the Transfer case. I know this topic has been covered many times before. But i wanted to ask the R34 gtr owners (Getrag owners) what their thoughts and experiences are with both Castrol transmax z and Royal purple synchromax in the gearbox? Any differences between shifting smoothness etc.

I know how pricey and rare the Getrag's can be so call me fussy when i say id rather break 100 Rb26 motors than a Getrag gearbox :P haha

Edited by Levy

You can buy brand new Getrag/transfer case etc from nengun for $8.7k USD.

Try getting a brand new Rb26dett for that price.

In saying that use the fluid that Nissan recommends which is NISMO COMPETITION OIL type 2189E(75W140) 2L

Edited by Stixbnr32

You can buy brand new Getrag/transfer case etc from nengun for $8.7k USD.

Try getting a brand new Rb26dett for that price.

In saying that use the fluid that Nissan recommends which is NISMO COMPETITION OIL type 2189E(75W140) 2L

Good to know they still sell brand new. This is the first time i heard the Nismo oil. Il have to look into that. Thanks man

I use RP syncromax in mine, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE use a gearbox additive in a Getrag

Try buying the Nismo oil and see how much it is :(

Would you recommend the RP synchromax? How many kms have you done with it?

I little over 10k and 5k of that is with 450+awkw including two trips to the drags, a day at SMSP-S and two hill climbs so far with two more at the end of this month

The RP Syncromax was designed for use in the Getrag, the Supra version which is nearly identical to the R34 one

I little over 10k and 5k of that is with 450+awkw including two trips to the drags, a day at SMSP-S and two hill climbs so far with two more at the end of this month

The RP Syncromax was designed for use in the Getrag, the Supra version which is nearly identical to the R34 one

Thanks for info. I think il give it the RP synchromax a go. Iv been using their engine oils for all my RBs without any problems. I guess there Gearbox oils should be just as good.

Used that RP stuff and made the box shit house to drive, before that it had the old oil it in from Japan and copped a hammering with 750hp.
Tried to be good to it and put the "good" oil in it and it was worse to drive.

Used that RP stuff and made the box shit house to drive, before that it had the old oil it in from Japan and copped a hammering with 750hp.

Tried to be good to it and put the "good" oil in it and it was worse to drive.

Way to kill my confidence i just bought 2 bottles today :unsure:

Il only be using it for the gearbox. Il be using Castrol transmax Z for the transfer case.

Sorry mate lol

See how you go I guess, we ended up getting the box rebuilt and synchros were rooted but gears were immaculate.

Well im not running no where near that sort of power lol Cars still standard. So what oil did you switch back to?

I have no issues with drivability with mine, it shifts perfectly fine

I use the RP stuff because when working the the BSM GTR team they had a group of oils tested after blowing a few boxes and the RP came back the best and they stopped losing boxes after changing to RP, though that was Gearmax in a PPG dog box

Post up how you go with the RP when you do it

If you want ideas on different oils look at the Supra sites, they have had the Getrag box a lot longer then us :thumbsup:

  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry about the late update guys. Finally ended up changing the the gearbox fluids. Already i noticed a big change in smoothness even while the gearbox is cold. Once its warmed up it just gets better. Before doing the change my gearbox felt pretty rough (no crunches). Especially at low speed shifts. Now it slips in beautifully :)

Like i said i ended up using Transmax z in the Transfer case and RP synchromax in the gearbox. Will see how long this smoothness last...

Edited by Levy
  • Like 1

That's good to hear :thumbsup:

I just did two days off hill climbs at bathurst :), and had a issue on the first run on the second day while box was still cold, it crunched going from 4th back to 3rd coming into the Cutting, after that the box had warmed up and was perfect

I was talking to the Supra owner that was there about oil and he too runs RP without issue but mentioned the Getrag was designed for Dextron II which is a mineral oil, not synthetic , but you can't buy that anymore as it was superseded by Dextron III

  • Like 1

If you follow the tread on the same subject further down you will se that Getrag say to use the Dextron II because the seals do not like modern synthetics

Poster there is buying Toyota T IV which presumably fits the bill.

  • 1 year later...

Just a quick update i havnt changed the the gearbox and tranfer oils since and have done roughly 10k. Its been through alot of hard street driving and occasional drags. And in the last 6 months iv been doing a fair bit of 2 step launches with the car making 340awkw. Gearbox hasnt had any issues since and still feels smooth at high and low rpms. Il be servicing soon and will be using the same oils

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 65601-05U00 is the hood latch. 62550-08U31 is the support that holds it to the radiator core support. They are all super discontinued so I don't really have any great leads on how to source this stuff.
    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
×
×
  • Create New...