Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Sadly sold the old girl earlier this week and have a number of parts left over which weren't included...

My prized possession are the TE37's, so I'll start off with this. The rest will follow soon (watch this space).

These are mint, basically brand new (as new). Not a flaw in them. Will let the pictures do the talking but will post more of them up this weekend. Current pictures are on the car, which obviously is no longer the case as the car is gone.

post-25413-0-63663500-1423743260_thumb.jpgpost-25413-0-50661000-1423743264_thumb.jpg

post-25413-0-85615200-1423743267_thumb.jpgpost-25413-0-40323500-1423743271_thumb.jpgpost-25413-0-99283600-1423743274_thumb.jpgpost-25413-0-10010200-1423743278_thumb.jpg

Specs are as follows...

2x 17x9JJ+15 (Bridgestone Adrenalin RE001 215/45R17 at 80%)
2x 18x10.5J+22 (Bridgestone Adrenalin RE002 235/40R18 at 95%)
4x Rays Eng center caps
4x Rays Eng hub rings (73.1Øx66.1Ø - Suits Nissan hubs)

Colour of the rims are genuine Rays Eng Matte Black. These were custom done by Rays Eng which incurred a hefty wait time, plus additional costs for the colour. Furthermore, I got these when Rays Eng updated the TE37's to show their branded (e.g. Rays Eng, Made in Japan, Forged Monoblock) on the rims to counter the wannabe/fake/inferior/copied rims mass produced.

I have noticed that the finish on these are so much more durable than getting them resprayed in retrospect. I've experienced this first hand when I previously had an older discontinued pair of TE37's which were originally bronze, sprayed by a professional shop to matte black. The colour on the lips chipped very easily and looked ghetto as. The finish of the paint around the wheel nuts also came off even though it was professionally done. Whereas,
the original Matte Black done by Rays Eng haven't got any chips or defects in the finish whatsoever!

Anyhoo... Looking for $3k ono for the lot including the rubber. Not keen to separate the rims and the rubber as I'll have no use for the rubber.

Pick up in Burwood East, VIC. Happy to courier but you need to organise it!

Contact via sms preferred on zero four two one 1 2 1 eight 1 eight.

Cheers,

Andy

  • 2 weeks later...

Bump!

Had a few people keen but no one's come up with the goods yet...

Cheers,

Andy

Edit: Oh and an update on the rubber on the 17's... There is actually a bit of inner camber wear on the pair. Price still stands as I am basically giving the rubber away free with the wheels. Rubber on the 18's are basically brand new. Price is nego within reason. Low ballers will be ignored.

Edited by AnDyStYLe
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Bump!

Willing to post to anywhere in Australia via courier... If I remember correctly, last time I sent a set of wheels to Sydney it was about $100 although that didn't include rubber.

Give us your postcode and I'll get a quote!

Cheers,

Andy

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Bump and price drop... $2.4k

For a full set of immaculate and original TE37's (NOT resprayed), this is a steal. Just needing to make space in the spare room, so these need to go.

Cheers,

Andy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.
    • Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.
    • It's actually one of the worst bits of Nissan nomenclature (also compounded by wiring diagrams when the TCU is incorporated in ECU, or, ECU has a passthru to a standalone TCU).... the gripe ~ they call it the TPS, but with an A/T it's actually a combined unit ...TPS (throttle position switch) + TPS (throttle position sensor).... ..by the looks of it (and considering car is A/T) you have this unit... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2262002u11 The connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit, is the TPS (throttle position sensor) ...only the TCU reads this. The connector on the unit body, is the TPS (throttle position switch) ...ECU reads this. It has 3 possible values -- throttle closed (idle control contact), open (both contacts open, ECU controls engine...'run' mode), and WOT (full throttle contact closed, ECU changes mapping). When the throttle is closed (idle control contact), this activates what the patent describes as the 'anti stall system' ~ this has the ECU keep the engine at idling speed, regardless of additional load/variances (alternator load mostly, along with engine temp), and drives the IACV solenoid with PWM signal to adjust the idle air admittance to do this. This is actually a specific ECCS software mode, that only gets utilized when the idle control contact is closed. When you rotate the TPS unit as shown, you're opening the idle control contact, which puts ECCS into 'run' mode (no idle control), which obviously is a non-sequitur without the engine started/running ; if the buzzing is coming from the IACV solenoid, then likely ECCS is freaking out, and trying to raise engine rpm 'any way it can'...so it's likely pulling the valve wide open....this is prolly what's going on there. The signal from the connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit (for the TCU), should be around 0.4volts with the throttle closed (idle position) ~ although this does effect low throttle shift points if set wrong, the primary purpose here is to tell TCU engine is at idle (no throttle demand), and in response lower the A/T line pressure ... this is often described as how much 'creep' you get with shifter in D at idle. The way the TPS unit is setup (physically), ensures the idle control contact closes with a high margin on the TPSensor signal wire, so you can rotate the unit on the adjustment slots, to achieve 0.4v whilst knowing the idle control contact is definitely closed. The IACV solenoid is powered by battery voltage via a fuse, and ground switched (PWM) by the ECU. When I check them, I typically remove the harness plug, feed the solenoid battery voltage and switch it to ground via a 5watt bulb test probe ; thing should click wide open, and idle rpm should increase... ...that said though, if it starts & idles with the TPS unit disconnected, and it still stalls when it gets up to operating temperature, it won't be the IACV because it's unused, which would infer something else is winking out...  
    • In the context of cam 'upgrader' I mean generally people who upgrade headers/cams - not my specific change. I mean it makes sense that if I had a bigger cam, I may get more false lean readings. So if I went smaller, I'd get less false lean readings. To a point where perhaps stock.. I'd have no false lean readings, according to the ECU. But I'm way richer than stock. My bigger than normal cam in the past also was giving false rich leanings. It's rather odd and doesn't add up or pass the pub test. Realistically what I want is the narrowbands to effectively work as closed loop fuel control and keep my AFR around 14.7 on light sections of the map. Which is of course the purpose of narrowband CL fuel control. So if I can change the switch points so the NB's target 14.7 (as read by my WB) then this should be fine. Haven't actually tested to see what the changed switchpoints actually result in - car needs to be in a position it can idle for awhile to do that. I suspect it will be a troublesome 15 min drive home with lots of stalling and way too rich/lean transient nightmare bucking away for that first drive at 2am or whevener it ends up being. Hopefully it's all tune-able. Realistically it should be. This is a very mild cam.
    • Messing with narrowband switchovers is a terrible bandaid. I don't want to think about it. You are a cam "upgrader" only in concept. As you said, your new cam is actually smaller, so it's technically a downgrade. OK, likely a very small downgrade, but nevertheless. But the big thing that will be the most likely suspect is the change of the advance angle. That change could be equivalent to a substantial decrease in cam lobe duration. I haven't gone to the effort of trying to think about what your change would actually cause. But until someone (you, me (unlikely), Matt, someone else) does so and comes to a conclusion about the effect, it remains a possibility that that is the change that is causing what you're seeing.
×
×
  • Create New...