Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No. The "H" in R200H stands for helical. Those are a rare beast.

Standard viscous LSD Skyline diff is R200V. Doesn't matter, because the CW&P set from one type of centre bolt onto others readily enough. Example. I have 4.11 gears from an R33/4 viscous diff bolted onto helical centre from an S15, all stuffed into R32 GTSt housing.

also doing some thinking.... can i just take the 4.11 ring and pinion out of the GTT rear end and fit it to the R34 GT-R rear end??? reason for not wanting to use my r34 GTT rear end is the spider gears are welded and the inner half shafts are 5x1 pattern and wont fit to my 6x1 axles in the R34 GT-R rear end

There are one or two small errors in that diff table. All GTRs (non active diff ones anyway) prior to the R34 were conventional mechanical LSD. I haven't paid enough attention to R34 GTRs to learn whether that helical entry in the Nismo table is accurate or not. I suggest an extensive google search for you to try to find out.

As I said in my above post - CW&P sets can be moved freely between R200 centres. I'm sure that there are likely to be one or two cases where that won't work.

Be aware that if your diff centre is in fact helical then they use different half shafts to the other R200s though. Different length on one side. So no easy swappsies there.

But, and here's the thing......you do not have a GTR rear end anyway, right? It's Stagea. Right? So no discussion about helical or GTR diffness is of any value. Right?

There are one or two small errors in that diff table. All GTRs (non active diff ones anyway) prior to the R34 were conventional mechanical LSD. I haven't paid enough attention to R34 GTRs to learn whether that helical entry in the Nismo table is accurate or not. I suggest an extensive google search for you to try to find out.

As I said in my above post - CW&P sets can be moved freely between R200 centres. I'm sure that there are likely to be one or two cases where that won't work.

Be aware that if your diff centre is in fact helical then they use different half shafts to the other R200s though. Different length on one side. So no easy swappsies there.

But, and here's the thing......you do not have a GTR rear end anyway, right? It's Stagea. Right? So no discussion about helical or GTR diffness is of any value. Right?

here is the Rear ends i have....

R34 GT-R (3.454)

Stagea (4.083)

R34 GT-T (4.111)

the motor and trans I put in my GT-T are from an R32/33 GT-R. so the front diff is 4.111, and i want to stick with 4.111 due to having the 5 speed trans not the 6 speed.

I got front and rear subframes from a R34 GT-R (this is where i got the R34 GT-R rear end and this is why i need to swap the gear ratio)

I cant directly run the R34 GT-T rear end due to it having 5x1 bolt rear axles

I cant run the Stagea rear end at all due to 3x2 bolt axles, 30 spline shafts instead of 32, and 4.083 ratio. -this rear end is basically useless to me

I cant directly run the R34 GT-R rear end due to the ratio not being what i need. however i like everything else about the rear end, its already in the brembo equipt rear sub frame, most likely has a good LSD in it, has 32 spline axles, the entire assembly is in awesome shape and has good abs/wheel speed sensors

-so i want to run the R34 GT-R rear end housing (its cleaner that the other R200 housings i have)

-I need to run the inner half shafts due to them having the proper 6x1 axle bolt ratio

-I need to run the R34 GT-R "centres" as you say due to them only accepting a 32 spline shaft which is the axles shafts that will be inserted into it

-I am need to run the 4.111 ring and pinion from my GT-T rear end to get the proper gear ratio i am looking for

I am hoping the parts above will join

If you can get the GTT CW & P to fit in the R34 GTR centre you're halfway there. Did you get any axles (half shafts) with the R34 GTR rear end? Axles of the right length may be your next challenge. And making sure all the wheel speed sensors are compatible. Are you trying to replicate the whole Atesssa set up with ECU, central sensor etc or are you copying the English model of just using a stand alone controller (as in another thread here)?

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 
    • Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • And gone to a new home  
    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
×
×
  • Create New...