Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help With R33 And R34 Gt-r Rear Ends


Recommended Posts

No. The "H" in R200H stands for helical. Those are a rare beast.

Standard viscous LSD Skyline diff is R200V. Doesn't matter, because the CW&P set from one type of centre bolt onto others readily enough. Example. I have 4.11 gears from an R33/4 viscous diff bolted onto helical centre from an S15, all stuffed into R32 GTSt housing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also doing some thinking.... can i just take the 4.11 ring and pinion out of the GTT rear end and fit it to the R34 GT-R rear end??? reason for not wanting to use my r34 GTT rear end is the spider gears are welded and the inner half shafts are 5x1 pattern and wont fit to my 6x1 axles in the R34 GT-R rear end

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are one or two small errors in that diff table. All GTRs (non active diff ones anyway) prior to the R34 were conventional mechanical LSD. I haven't paid enough attention to R34 GTRs to learn whether that helical entry in the Nismo table is accurate or not. I suggest an extensive google search for you to try to find out.

As I said in my above post - CW&P sets can be moved freely between R200 centres. I'm sure that there are likely to be one or two cases where that won't work.

Be aware that if your diff centre is in fact helical then they use different half shafts to the other R200s though. Different length on one side. So no easy swappsies there.

But, and here's the thing......you do not have a GTR rear end anyway, right? It's Stagea. Right? So no discussion about helical or GTR diffness is of any value. Right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are one or two small errors in that diff table. All GTRs (non active diff ones anyway) prior to the R34 were conventional mechanical LSD. I haven't paid enough attention to R34 GTRs to learn whether that helical entry in the Nismo table is accurate or not. I suggest an extensive google search for you to try to find out.

As I said in my above post - CW&P sets can be moved freely between R200 centres. I'm sure that there are likely to be one or two cases where that won't work.

Be aware that if your diff centre is in fact helical then they use different half shafts to the other R200s though. Different length on one side. So no easy swappsies there.

But, and here's the thing......you do not have a GTR rear end anyway, right? It's Stagea. Right? So no discussion about helical or GTR diffness is of any value. Right?

here is the Rear ends i have....

R34 GT-R (3.454)

Stagea (4.083)

R34 GT-T (4.111)

the motor and trans I put in my GT-T are from an R32/33 GT-R. so the front diff is 4.111, and i want to stick with 4.111 due to having the 5 speed trans not the 6 speed.

I got front and rear subframes from a R34 GT-R (this is where i got the R34 GT-R rear end and this is why i need to swap the gear ratio)

I cant directly run the R34 GT-T rear end due to it having 5x1 bolt rear axles

I cant run the Stagea rear end at all due to 3x2 bolt axles, 30 spline shafts instead of 32, and 4.083 ratio. -this rear end is basically useless to me

I cant directly run the R34 GT-R rear end due to the ratio not being what i need. however i like everything else about the rear end, its already in the brembo equipt rear sub frame, most likely has a good LSD in it, has 32 spline axles, the entire assembly is in awesome shape and has good abs/wheel speed sensors

-so i want to run the R34 GT-R rear end housing (its cleaner that the other R200 housings i have)

-I need to run the inner half shafts due to them having the proper 6x1 axle bolt ratio

-I need to run the R34 GT-R "centres" as you say due to them only accepting a 32 spline shaft which is the axles shafts that will be inserted into it

-I am need to run the 4.111 ring and pinion from my GT-T rear end to get the proper gear ratio i am looking for

I am hoping the parts above will join

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you can get the GTT CW & P to fit in the R34 GTR centre you're halfway there. Did you get any axles (half shafts) with the R34 GTR rear end? Axles of the right length may be your next challenge. And making sure all the wheel speed sensors are compatible. Are you trying to replicate the whole Atesssa set up with ECU, central sensor etc or are you copying the English model of just using a stand alone controller (as in another thread here)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes as stated before. i have the complete rear subframe with axles.

AWD system is taken care of. this rear end is the last of a couple final steps to convert my GT-T to a GT-R (with R32/33 motor trans not R34)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on.
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...