Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For Sale:
All located in South East Melb.

Y34 SuperMade Instant Gentleman Body Kit
imported from japan and used for the Viva Garage Group Buy. Includes Front bar, rear bar, sideskirts, foglight holder pieces, foglights, LED strip, SuperMade plastic bag + stickers.
reason for sale: kit was very thin fibreglass so i wasnt really happy with it. Viva have since added another layer to the front and rear bars. its a lot sturdier now, but I have changed my mind.

So far guys with the replica kits havent run into major issues fitting their kits.
Also, front bar has had a small bar removed to improve space for front mount intercooler.

IMAG0129_zpsxwfempv2.jpg

IMAG0131_zpsvr575y28.jpg

IMAG0130_zpsh2o3fxdp.jpg

IMAG0133_zpsmunol8x7.jpg

IMAG0132_zpstpzdbz2i.jpg

IMAG0134_zpsombger4r.jpg

IMAG0135_zpsjzb7vncc.jpg

Price: looking for around $1400 neg. will take price into consideration when negotiating postage.
I have access to body kit boxes so can be packaged neatly


KTF-1 Nissan CVT oil SOLD
For CVT Y34's and GT-8 V35's.
Price: $200 for one 4L can. unopened.

Extroid CVT sump gasket & O-ring SOLD
Price: $45

IMAG0137_zpsyaqcgrpr.jpg

IMAG0275_zpsvdukhpn7.jpg

Y34 stock suspension
Front and rear. 106,000kms. car had major nissan service in 2014, not sure if they were touched though. comfy ride, no squeaks or leaks.
Front dust boots are rooted (as any Nissan with more than 500kms on it)
Price: $400

IMAG0138_zpsukgf8ffi.jpg

IMAG0139_zpspk4du31f.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453809-y34-body-kit-extroid-cvt-suspension/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

4L unopened can of KTF-1 is available now.

also have about 2-3L of an opened can of KTF-1 that is pickup only.

Have a stock set of rear camber arms and rear traction rods for Y34 available too. $50 for all.

  • 3 weeks later...

added cvt O-ring, which is part of cvt.co.nz's "CVT service pack" but they want $75~ plus postage with the sump gasket.

Unopened KTF-1 oil is now sold.

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Have front and rear factory Y34 bumpers in KH3 black. Excellent condition, front bumper has small hole cut in it for a parking light installed in Japan.

Can post pics on request. $200 per bumper

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
    • Don't do what I did, use a 300000km old housing with billet gears. The old pump probably was clearanced with saw dust, Edward Lee's special engine treatment sauce and a good odo wind back. I had oil pressure issues, then replaces pump with new housing, new billet gears and 2x track day later binned a motor due to other oil related issues due to a previous engine builder. Long story short, buy a M2 or 3 or 4 N55/S55/S58 and enjoy life.
    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
    • Right, but if you replace the pump gears + put a spline or sine drive gear on the crank on a Nismo/OEM/N1/etc pump at that point do you really still want more flow/oil pressure? Let's say this is a the aforementioned "keep it simple" build, no more than ~400 kW at the crank.
×
×
  • Create New...