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Rb25 R32 Engineering?

patrickmm10

By patrickmm10,
in Australian Capital Territory

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patrickmm10 Rookie

patrickmm10

Posted
Posted

Hey guys looking at doin a rb25 conversion into a r32 like the title says. Yeah I know it's common as f@&k but the 32 is my favourite liner and I've got a 25 in the shed that's begging me to do something with it. So before I look for a shell and begin the conversion I would like to see if anyone in the ACT has done the conversion and engineered it.

I will be looking into engineers soon as I've heard some stories surrounding Dickson not accepting certain engineers and their reports at the moment. So I will find one that I can work with and get the information off him to make him happy but I'd like to see what other people have had to do for engineering with this conversion and ones similar.

Also interested in seeing what modifications people have done prior to engineering. I'll be doing the normal mods;

-front mount

-exhaust

-ffp

-coilovers

-slotted rear rotors

-possible GTR front brake upgrade or just slotted front rotors

-braided hose lines

But I'm wondering if visual modifications Are okay, I was looking to do afew before engineering such as gtr seats, nardi steering wheel and r34 wheels. Obviously I can do them after it's engineered if that's not okay as I will be putting gtr kit on it and making some wide front and rear guards anyway

I'd love to hear some of the modifications people have done to their 32s that they have loved and also disliked and wouldn't do again and why!

Cheer

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453849-rb25-r32-engineering/
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D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted

I used to read all the ADRs, but cant seem to find them these days.

Anyway as far as i know you dont need any engineering for any of that.

R32 came out with rb25 in rare models, and coilovers are ok as long as they arent adjustable.

Fibreglass or carbon panels are not ok, racetrack only.

Intercooler, dont cut the front reo and its ok.

Braided lines, get HEL and get the option where they put the ADR printed on the hoses and they pass.

Might want to check if those rules still apply.

I should have done a return flow intercooler, and not so big.

Any suspension part with rose joints are sht, dont last, and wont pass adr anyway.

Split dump was a pain and a waste of time, bellmouth is better.

Return line fuel cooler, cheap, easy and eliminates many problems. Deatchwerks fuel pump was a bolt in, so easy. Same with injectors.

Vinyl wrap and acrylic paint are sht. wont last.

Oil cooler with a thermostat is good, but it doesnt have to be big, a small one will do fine. Thermostat is important.

A good diff centre is great, old 32 diffs are all fked.

A hard induction pipe so it doesnt suck closed, and an insulated cold air box. So it stays cold.

I think front bracing is good, it needs it, and rear bracing is not needed. its stiff enough at the rear. Keep the rear soft for traction.

Keep the heater if you lose the aircon, you need a demister for adr and an eletcric one like mine is soooo sht.

Battery in the boot frees up room for other stuff in the engine bay.

Most of all:

Plan carefully in the engine bay, or it wont fit. Doing it all once is better than over and over trying to fit more sht in there.

patrickmm10 Rookie

patrickmm10

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Cheers for that D.I.Y. Mik.

Anyway as far as i know you dont need any engineering for any of that.

Ahh that might make it abit cheaper then! if it does not have to be engineered i might leave the stock suspension and just do the brakes, front mount, exhaust & filter relocation kit so theres less for Dickson to cry about.
Is there anything special with the battery relocation in terms of Dickson needing an Auto elec to have gone over it or something stupid like that ?

Most of all:

Plan carefully in the engine bay, or it wont fit. Doing it all once is better than over and over trying to fit more sht in there.

I have some big plans for it down the track so im just trying to get it all in there as tidy as possible for now. Also Ill be respraying it including the bay so im going to try and minimize the chances of anything getting scratched so there will hopefully be no second or third etc times the motor goes in and out lol.
I will leaving the Aircon and Heaters as i will be using it as a daily (until funds allow for a 35/40, E85, haltech PS2000 and probably a better clutch lol).
After rego my plan is to add a oil cooler, coilovers, Driftworks adjustable arms, Kazz 2way, some decent offset & sized wheels and all the other fun sh*t!!
natett Proficient

natett

Posted
Posted

just do the conversion, make its clean and presented in a professional almost factory way and 9 time outs of 10 you'll never worry. if for some reason you do get in trouble then talk to the engineer then. no point wasting time and money for something that may never even be an issue in the first place!

If most of the parts you bolt on or upgrade with are nissan items and factory trim (no crazy retrims on seats etc) there wouldnt be many inspectors that would be able to tell the difference from an initial glance

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted

Battery in the boot needs to be in a secure box, bolted down with a battery clamp and a strap or clamp on the lid and vented to outside.

So seal the box and have a hose, or have the hose off the battery vent and dont seal the box.

The guy at the battery shop told me that. They do extra batteries in 4wds a lot.

Make it work well, use 0 gauge cable ( can get at battery world fyshwick), and gold plated terminals, Jaycar and Elite car stereo have these.

Remember you need a big terminal block for the engine bay side, like http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HC4020 They used to have a 0 guage one too.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430316-diy-miks-r32-gtst/#

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