Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I've got a r34 gtt with a built r33 motor in it.

The main mods are:

Forged bottom end

HKS step 1 cams

Trust td06SH 25g kit

Haltech plat. pro

Greddy stle manifold

555cc denso injectors

aeromotive 340 fuel pump

splitfire coilpacks

apexi avcr ebc

320rwkw at 20psi on bp98

The motor ran perfect while it was in my r33, after i put it in my 34 and got it retuned, its been fine. Boosted as per normal etc, but every now and then it would turn off under full boost but very rarely.

Now after 2-3 months i have two main issues and one minor:

1. It doesn't hit full boost, bounces only between 0.9 to 1.1 bar

2. The turning off problem has gotten worse, today it would just turn off EVERY time i try to hit boost around 0.7bar

3. Minor issue: the idle sometimes drops to somewhere around 500rpm so i have to hold the gas pedal to bring it to around 1000rpm, but thats not all the time

Does any one have any idea where the problem could be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453883-boost-issues/
Share on other sites

Says haltec platinum pro in his post, you need to see what the ecu is doing maybee it's cutting on purpose, maybee you have a dead sensor, maybe something else is failing.

Missed that whoops.

Ring haltech tech support or try and find a manual for your ecu. It will mention it somwhere.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453883-boost-issues/#findComment-7481239
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
    • Don't do what I did, use a 300000km old housing with billet gears. The old pump probably was clearanced with saw dust, Edward Lee's special engine treatment sauce and a good odo wind back. I had oil pressure issues, then replaces pump with new housing, new billet gears and 2x track day later binned a motor due to other oil related issues due to a previous engine builder. Long story short, buy a M2 or 3 or 4 N55/S55/S58 and enjoy life.
    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
×
×
  • Create New...