Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so his trap speed was less but time was better with the extra shift. Wonder how much softening the suspension helped.

im pretty interested in this convo. I can see both points been a fine line and valid.

Tyres matter here also, if running slicks then the traction lose from doing this change is greatly reduced

This is where everyone is different and every car is different as well and you need to set up your car accordingly

I don't believe by throwing in short diff ratio and doing nothing else would result in a faster ET at a slower MPH, the theory should make that the other way, so what else was done to add traction

I went from 18" every day tyres to 16" drag radials with a bigger diameter and went 0.2 seconds faster at 2MPH slower due to traction increase

  • Like 1

Tyres matter here also, if running slicks then the traction lose from doing this change is greatly reduced

This is where everyone is different and every car is different as well and you need to set up your car accordingly

I don't believe by throwing in short diff ratio and doing nothing else would result in a faster ET at a slower MPH, the theory should make that the other way, so what else was done to add traction

I went from 18" every day tyres to 16" drag radials with a bigger diameter and went 0.2 seconds faster at 2MPH slower due to traction increase

he also changed the the ride height and all the alignment settings to get more tyre on the ground

he also changed the the ride height and all the alignment settings to get more tyre on the ground

Ah huh said the blind man, so faster ET can be put down to better traction from suspension setup but better traction wont lower MPH, that falls fair and squarely on diff ratios

Or possibly change gears less depending on your situation as you can afford to hold a higher gear instead of gearing down..... how long is a piece of string... it just changes the characteristic of the car.... some advantages and some trade offs.....

Ah huh said the blind man, so faster ET can be put down to better traction from suspension setup but better traction wont lower MPH, that falls fair and squarely on diff ratios

Bingo, don't let people know that because it "feels" faster

Or possibly change gears less depending on your situation as you can afford to hold a higher gear instead of gearing down..... how long is a piece of string... it just changes the characteristic of the car.... some advantages and some trade offs.....

So in this case, the 6 speed is slower because of the extra gear change. I race my car a lot and I can tell you the standard 5 speed and 4.11s is only worth replacing if you are having strength problems or want a dog engagement. 4.3's or Getrag conversions don't have a real benefit in performance.

Edited by SimonR32
  • Like 1

Bingo, don't let people know that because it "feels" faster

So in this case, the 6 speed is slower because of the extra gear change. I race my car a lot and I can tell you the standard 5 speed and 4.11s is only worth replacing if you are having strength problems or want a dog engagement. 4.3's or Getrag conversions don't have a real benefit in performance.

Maybe.... I suppose it depends on the application. Obviously Mines thought it's was essential for their setup for Tsukuba, so there must be some advantage there don't you think? Did not bad at willow springs either. I think Mine's did the modification for a reason and I am sure they did enough r&d to support their decision based on the r33 experience.

The 34 was only one sec faster and you can see the 33 labouring on a few of the corner exits. I am sure with shorter gearing the 33 would have been faster. Anyway if you want to see the difference gearing makes, just have the 33 and 34 videos running side by side.

Not saying it's better just different and maybe be an advantage in the correct application.

Hi guys, so took the r34 gt-r to wakefield yesterday for some hot laps. The car goes well with the -5 turbos, but I found the power sweet spot is between 6000rpm-8000rpm. If I shifted a bit early and at 5500rpm it takes longer to get back up to speed. Also on some of the slower corner where some cars are in 3rd gear I find my self shifting down to 2nd otherwise I'll be in 3rd gear at 4500rpm and no power.

First time at wakefield with the gt-r (last time with s2000 was 10 years ago) and needed alot of practice, my best time was 1:14, pretty slow I know, didn't want to post in the laptime thread was too embrassed, LOL. Could have gone a bit quicker with my old turbo I guess as I wouldn't have to shift to 2nd gear that much.

But in conclusion I can say the lag of the -5 turbos didn't bother me too much on track, felt better than on the street cause I'm always above 6000rpm in any gear. Might go better at eastern creek with less slow corners.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys, currently being offered a Greddy hard pipe suction kit that replaces the twin turbo pipes and afm intake pipes, just want to know if it will make a difference in my setup ie power or response and is it worth getting. Any one with this kit feel a difference at all?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
×
×
  • Create New...