Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

i just got my first Skyline, and this is my first post on this site,

big thanks to all you guys, i did alot of reading on this site before i decided to do this build

This is the Car

Its a 1991 R32 Gtr

post-139044-0-42052500-1424225473_thumb.jpg

post-139044-0-64085500-1424225483_thumb.jpg

post-139044-0-50051500-1424225674_thumb.jpg

post-139044-0-27050900-1424225683_thumb.jpg

grabbed it of ebay from a retired policeman in Newcastle

its not running, blown turbos,

we towed it back to Sydney and are now in the process of bringing it back to life

post-139044-0-00769700-1424225678_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453974-r32-build-log-my-first-skyline/
Share on other sites

Now comes the fun part

im keen on a pretty involved rebuild

and i wanted to get some advice

the build list (so far)

rub back and respray $3500

Rb30 Bottom End $500

RB34 Stroker kit (pistons crank and rods) $5600

borg warner efr 9180 Turbo $3700

Brian Crower BC0230 Valve Springs $500

Hks Camshaft 272 10.2 LIFT STEP 2 $1000
Headwork port and polish $1500
GFB Wastegate $700
ebay single turbo exhaust manifold $700
4 inch turbo back exhuast $1800
Haltech plug in ECU and flex module $2500

im still unsure what fuel setup to install

and i know there will be many many many other parts i will need (happy for any advice)

im not chasing any particular power figures

i just want a good strong car that will be "reliable"

any help will be appreciated

Saw this on ebay. Congrats on the purchase. Looks like a good base to start with.

That's a rare colour so I'm told.

"The factory Pearl Blue is a special order on the V-specs (according to an independent site, only around 300 ever made"

Will it be a period correct resto or balls out build? Either way, looking forward to the end product

definitely like the blue paint and would love to keep it,

i just need to track down the colour,

as for the restore or balls to the wall,

im not chasing a actual power figure, but i want to build a very capable street racer,

low lag, lots of power, (essentially the impossible dream)

i rather have 700 HP and less lag instead of 1000 hp and a lag monster

has anyone used this turbo before, ive been told with the 3.4L engine it should be making 20psi by 3000rpm,

and for the manifold, i just checked for a steam pipe one, that looks really good, thanks for the tip

The Borg warners are fantastic from what i have heard. My tuner has been trying to convince me for years.

I would just make sure you do all the reading in and actually decide on a figure you want. Will help with the overall build.

big thanks Anfanee

i honestly did not know what to do with the gearbox, and ive never seen that gearset before

and that set is really good (smooth and quiet) from what im told, i dont like the idea of a "dog box" or a sequential

i want a regular manual car, that i can drive every day if i want to, no crunching and jerking

so with your help i quickly found this link, the guy from just jap says the gears will hold 800hp ish

http://justjap.com/os-giken-cross-gear-set-nissan-bnr32.html

but i need to get a working R33 GTR gearbox to install the parts in , thats where im stuck

i rang around, there are none that i could find 2nd hand

the only other option i have is to get a R34 GTR gearbox and hope it holds,

but im thinking the gearset might be stronger,

anyone have any experience

... $60,000 build. If you think you will finish it for much less than that your kidding yourself.

...20-25k on a 3.4 stroker engine and bolt on's and you're going to cheap out on a manifold and gate?

Set some goals, set out a budget and build something achievable for you.... a 60% car that runs is a lot more fun than a 99% car that's in bits still.

Cheers

J.

By the way you have written your opening posts, your running head first into it (like we all do).... and I have impressed upon you the scope of a build (in dollars, not to mention the time) you are talking about.

What you have said is somewhat contradictory though... why use obviously cheap and inferior parts for a 'reliable' build, why go a full tilt 3.4lt build for a 'strong car' ... why choose a 1000hp capable turbo that IS going to be laggy- when you're stating '700hp and less lag'?

... so I get to my last comment. Have a little think about what you want out of the car, do the research and choose components based on what you out of your car (as best as you can afford) within reason.

Gearbox... again comes down to what your actual goals are, what you intend to use the car for and what your budget is.

If you want a fast, reliable, easy street car that is very capable on the track... look at an r34 GTR conversion with the stock r32 GTR gearing. If you want to drag race, throw a 2 speed power glide in it.

I do like the colour... have fun with it, because building a GTR is a rewarding experience.

Cheers

J.

  • 2 weeks later...

Now comes the fun part

im keen on a pretty involved rebuild

and i wanted to get some advice

the build list (so far)

rub back and respray $3500

Rb30 Bottom End $500

RB34 Stroker kit (pistons crank and rods) $5600

borg warner efr 9180 Turbo $3700

Brian Crower BC0230 Valve Springs $500

Hks Camshaft 272 10.2 LIFT STEP 2 $1000
Headwork port and polish $1500
GFB Wastegate $700
ebay single turbo exhaust manifold $700
4 inch turbo back exhuast $1800
Haltech plug in ECU and flex module $2500

im still unsure what fuel setup to install

and i know there will be many many many other parts i will need (happy for any advice)

im not chasing any particular power figures

i just want a good strong car that will be "reliable"

any help will be appreciated

That's $22,000 plus the price of the car............

I hope you have more success than I do.

I always do my arse on these type of builds.

I genuinely wish you good luck.

Bob.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...